Article: Bora Dress Fitting and Custom Adjustments

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Bora Dress Fitting and Custom Adjustments

Looking for assistance fitting the Bora Dress sewing pattern? You’ve come to the right place! This post will cover the most common fitting adjustments you may need for the Bora. Find fitting posts for each of our patterns in the sew along library here.

You can check out our Tester Inspiration post here if you’re interested in seeing it on a variety of body types. During testing, we work through the fit for each tester, which helps inform the fitting and custom adjustments we discuss in our fitting posts. Most of these adjustments are included in the pattern tutorials, and if more fit questions come up, we will continue to add them to this blog post.

The Bora is a woven dress with two views. View A features puff sleeves gathered at the shoulder and elbow with an optional back tie. View B is a sleeveless tank and has a wide scoop back. Both views have a V-neck fitted bodice with princess seaming, an empire waist, and an A-line skirt, and are available in a long or short length.

Before we get started, I like to note that the goal is to create a comfortable garment you will enjoy wearing. I don’t think it’s necessary to eliminate every single drag line or pull, so be kind to yourself as you analyze your fit. If you have specific questions about fitting the Bora Dress, you can always reach out in our Chalk and Notch Facebook Group or email us here.

HOW TO PICK A SIZE

First, take new measurements before starting any project. Our bodies change, and starting with accurate numbers is the first step toward a good fit. You will need the following measurements:

High Bust – Measure around your body, above your bust, just under your arms. Make sure your tape is level around your body. Rest your arms at your sides when measuring.
Full Bust – Measure around your body, at the fullest part of your bust. Make sure your tape is level around your body. Rest your arms at your sides when measuring.
Waist – Measure around your body, at the smallest part of your torso. If you are having trouble finding your waist, lean over to one side, your waist is where your body bends.
Hips – Measure around your body, at the fullest part of your hips/bum.

A few other measurements will be helpful. Cross-check these with the finished garment measurement chart to see if you need any custom adjustments.

Under Bust – Measure around your body, under your bust. Make sure your tape is level around your body. Rest your arms at your sides when measuring. If you like a fitted bodice, you might want to adjust the ease under the bust.
Bicep – Measure the circumference of your bicep, about 2″ down from your armpit. Check this against the sleeve hem elastic measurement.
Side to Hem – Measure from under the arm at the side seam to where you want your dress to finish. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length.

BODY MEASUREMENTS

This style is designed to have a fitted bodice and an A-line skirt. Use the high bust and full bust measurements to determine your size. If your waist and hips put you in a larger size, and you would like to cut the skirt pieces on the bias, consider sizing up. The bias cut fabric will drape closer to the body. It is always recommended to sew a test garment to confirm fit.

This pattern includes four bust cup options, and the cup size is determined by calculating the difference between the high and full bust. If the difference between your high bust and full bust is 1” (2.5 cm) use the A cup. If the difference between your high bust and full bust is 2” (5 cm) use the B cup. If the difference between your high bust and full bust is 3” (7.5 cm) use the C cup. If the difference between your high bust and full bust is 4” (10 cm) use the D cup. If you have more than a 4” (10 cm) difference, you may need a full bust adjustment. More details are in the custom fitting section below.

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

Pick the size for each of the measurements that works best for your body and preferred fit.

REVIEW THE INTENDED EASE & FINISHED LENGTH

BUST – There is no ease through the bust.

*WAIST – There is 3” (7.5 cm) of ease through the waist.

*HIPS – There is 4” (10cm) of ease through the hips in the dress view.

*When sewing the bias skirt option, there will be less ease due to the drape of the bias fabric.

FINISHED LENGTH – The finished length of the full length dress ends above the ankle. The finished length of the short length dress ends above the knee. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length.

MAKING A MUSLIN

I will always advise you to make a muslin or toile (test garment) before cutting into your final fashion fabric, but it's especially important to make a toile of at least the bodice for the Bora. Since there is no ease in the bodice, you'll want to make sure the fit is confirmed before proceeding with your final fabric. If you’d like more info on fabrics, we have a recommended fabric post for the Bora here.

TIPS FOR SEWING A TEST BODICE

This pattern requires a bodice fitting to confirm fit.

Pin the center back closed at 3/4" (2 cm) or add the center back zipper to confirm the fit.
For the tank view, check the length from the shoulder to the armhole.
For the sleeve view, you can omit the sleeves, the sleeve length is adjustable through the shoulders with elastic.
Check the under bust placement and ease. Remember the skirt weight will pull the bodice lower.
Check the bust shape. The princess seam should be over your bust point.
Check your side seam placement.
Transfer any adjustments to your pattern.

CUSTOM ADJUSTMENTS

There are often many ways to make the same adjustments, and a simple adjustment can affect many areas. The following are the most common adjustments we saw during testing.

ADJUSTING THE TANK ARMHOLE LENGTH - TANK VIEW

If you need to lengthen or shorten the armhole for the tank view, adjust the shoulder.

To add length, add paper and add the desired amount of length on the front and back.
To remove length, trim the desired amount from the shoulder on the front and back.

ADJUSTING THE SHOULDER SLOPE - TANK VIEW

If your shoulder straps are standing away from your body or feel like they are falling off your shoulders, you may need to adjust the shoulder slope. Pinching out any gaping while fitting can help you see where to make this adjustment.

You can do this in a few places. The first is at the shoulder seam. This is the best place to adjust if you are fitting a final garment.

Pinch out length on one side of the shoulder.
Transfer the amount you pinched out on your flat pattern.

Alternatively, you can adjust by pinching out at the neckline to rotate the shoulder straps in. This is best if you are making pattern corrections before cutting your final garment.

Pinch out length on the neckline where it is needed.
Cut your pattern along one of the lines, leaving a bit of paper at the armhole.
Rotate and close the small dart.
Your straps will be rotated in.

ADJUSTING THE BODICE LENGTH

The bodice is designed to hit under the bust. If you need to lengthen or shorten the bodice, cut a horizontal line between the bottom edge and bottom notch.

Cut the center front, side front, side back, and center back bodice pieces as indicated.
If adding length, add paper and add the amount desired.
If shortening, overlap at the cut line the amount desired.
Re-draw the seams.

ADJUSTING THE BUST SHAPE

If you have any gaping at the princess seam or need to adjust the shape, you can pin out the fullness as needed.

Decide where you want to add or remove the extra ease.
Pin your test bodice.
Transfer any markings to your paper pattern.
If removing gaping at the princess seams, your adjustments may look like the graphics below.

ADJUSTING THE NECKLINE

If you want to raise or lower the neckline, decide the amount you want to adjust and draw a new neckline like the image below demonstrates. Be sure to make the same adjustment to the bodice lining pieces.

ADJUSTING THE SKIRT LENGTH

The finished length of the long dress ends above the ankle, and the short length ends above the knee. If hemming the skirt with a double fold hem, you can add or remove length from the hem. If including a hem facing, you will want to adjust the length at least 4" (10 cm) above the hem for either the short or long length.

Draw a horizontal line perpendicular to the grainline about 5" (13 cm) above the hem on each of the four skirt pattern pieces.
Cut the center front, side front, side back, and center back skirt pieces as indicated.
If adding length, add paper and add the desired amount.
If shortening, overlap at the cut line the the amount desired.
Re-draw the seam by connecting and blending the seams.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT

If you have over 4" (10 cm) between your hight bust and full bust, you may need a Full Bust Adjustment to the D cup bodice. This is a quick method to add more fullness to the bust while leaving the high bust and waist measurements the same. You will still need to make a bodice muslin/test garment to confirm fit.

First decide how much more ease you need through your bust. You will add half that amount to your pattern. If you need 1" (2.5 cm), then you will add 1/2" (1.25 cm) to the side bust pattern piece.
Mark the seam allowance.

Draw a new stitching line 1/2" (1.25 cm) out from the bust point. Blend the new cut line to zero at the top and bottom.

Now you will need to add length back to the center front pattern piece. Measure the side bust. Cut the center front and add any necessary length.

Once the seam length matches on both pattern pieces, you have completed the FBA.

I hope you'll find this helpful while fitting the Bora sewing pattern. It’s totally worth the time to make a muslin, make any adjustments, and update your printed pattern. Remember to write down notes so that when you return to the pattern, you know what adjustments you have made. Please let me know if you have any other fit questions, and I can update the post as needed.

Happy Sewing!

XO, Gabriela