Tess Dress and Top Fitting and Custom Adjustments

Looking for assistance fitting the Tess Dress and Top sewing pattern? You’ve come to the right place! We have put this post together to cover the most common fitting adjustments you may need for the Tess. Find fitting posts for each of our patterns in the fitting and custom adjustments library here.

You can check out our Tester Inspiration post here if you’re interested in seeing it on a variety of body types. During testing, we work through the fit for each tester, which helps inform what fitting and custom adjustments we talk about in our fitting posts. Most of these adjustments are included in the pattern tutorials, and if more fit questions come up, we will continue to add them to the blog post.

The Tess is a fitted dress and top with a wide ballet-style neckline, designed for medium weight knits. There are two front and two back necklines and three sleeve options. Sleeveless tank, short-sleeve, and long-sleeve views are available. The top is available in hip length, finishing just above the hips. The waist length ends right below the natural waist. The dress is midi length, ending mid-calf.

Before we get started, I always like to add a note that the goal should be to create a comfortable garment that you will enjoy wearing. I don’t think it’s important to get rid of every single drag line and pull, so be kind to yourself as you are analyzing your fit. If you have specific questions about fitting the Tess Dress or Top, you can always reach out in our Chalk and Notch Facebook Group or email us here.

HOW TO PICK A SIZE

First, make sure you take new measurements before starting any project because our bodies change, and starting with accurate numbers is the first step to getting a good fit. You will need the following measurements:

High Bust – Measure around your body, above your bust, just under your arms. Make sure your tape is level around your body. Rest your arms at your sides when measuring.
Full Bust – Measure around your body, at the fullest part of your bust. Make sure your tape is level around your body. Rest your arms at your sides when measuring.
Waist – Measure around your body, at the smallest part of your torso. If you are having trouble finding your waist, lean over to one side, your waist is where your body bends.
Hips – Measure around your body, at the fullest part of your hips/bum.

A few other measurements will be helpful. Cross-check these with the finished garment measurement chart to see if you need any custom adjustments.

Bicep – Measure the circumference of your bicep, about 2″ down from your armpit.
Shoulder to Hem (for Dress View) – Measure from the high point of your shoulder (at your neckline) to where you want your dress to finish. The finished length of the dress is midi length and ends mid-calf. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length.

BODY MEASUREMENTS

Use the high bust, full bust, and hip measurements to determine your size. If you fall between sizes or prefer a looser fit, you can size up. Your fabric can significantly affect the fit. It is always recommended to check your fabric stretch and sew a test garment to confirm fit. 

This pattern includes two bust cup options, and the cup size is determined by calculating the difference between the high and full bust.

If the difference between your high bust and full bust is between 0″ and 2″ (5 cm) use the A/B cup. If the difference is between 2″ (5 cm) and 4″ (10 cm) use the C/D cup. If you have more than a 4″ (10 cm) difference, you may need a full bust adjustment.

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

Pick the size for each of the measurements that works best for your body and preferred fit.

REVIEW THE INTENDED EASE & FINISHED LENGTH

BUST – Tess is designed to have negative ease through the bust and hips. There is 4″ (10 cm) of negative ease through the bust.

WAIST – There is 1 1/2″ (4 cm) of positive ease through the waist in the A/B cup and 2 1/2″ (6 cm) of positive ease through the waist in the C/D cup.

HIPS – There is 4″ (10 cm) of negative ease through the hips.

*The C/D cup has 1/2” (1.25 cm) less ease in the bust and 1” (2.5 cm) of added ease in the waist.

FINISHED LENGTH – To find the finished length of the dress, measure from the neck/shoulder point to the hem. The finished length of the waist-length top ends right below the natural waist. The finished length of the hip-length top ends above the hips. The finished length of the dress is midi length, ending mid-calf.

MAKING A MUSLIN

I will always advise you to make a muslin or toile (test garment) before cutting into your final fashion fabric. Because knit fabrics vary widely in stretch and recovery, make sure to muslin with a comparable fabric. If you’d like more info on fabrics, we have a recommended fabric post for the Tess here.

CUSTOM ADJUSTMENTS

There are often many ways to make the same adjustments, and a simple adjustment can affect many areas. The following are the most common adjustments we saw during testing.

ADJUSTING THE LENGTH

To find the finished length, measure from the neck/shoulder point to the hem. The finished length of the top and tank ends right below the natural waist. The finished length of the dress ends mid-calf. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length. If you want to adjust the length, you can make adjustments at the hem. For the top, it’s easiest to adjust at the hem.

To adjust the top length at the hem:

• If adding length, add the amount desired and extend from the center front or center back to the side seams.
  
• If shortening, trim the hem.
  

To adjust the dress length at the hem:

• If adding length, add paper and add the amount desired by extending the center front or center back and the side seam.
  
• If shortening, trim the hem.
  

ADJUSTING THE ARMHOLE LENGTH AT THE SHOULDER

You may find that the armhole length needs an adjustment. Armhole length is different for everyone, and your fabric can be a contributing factor. For example, if you are using a heavyweight fabric when making a dress, the fabric can pull on the armhole, making it longer. Or if your fabric does not have enough stretch, your armhole could feel tight in a top. 

To adjust the length of your armhole at the shoulders. It’s a simple adjustment, but you will need to consider a few other things.

• If adding length, add paper and extend the shoulder seam the desired amount.
  
• If shortening, trim the shoulder seam.

This adjustment will change the length of your armholes and neckline. You will need to adjust the neckband (and armhole band if sewing the tank).

• To do this, you need to measure the new neckline (or armhole) at the sew line. You will see it marked in a red-dashed line below.
  
• Take this number and multiply it by .83.
  
• This is the new length of your band. All bands are drafted with an 83% ratio. Make sure to add back any seam allowance to your bands. The seam allowance included is 3/8″ (1 cm).

If you are sewing a view with a sleeve. You will need to adjust the sleeve armhole.

• To do this, you need to cut a line at the top of your sleeve cap.
  
• Add length or overlap to reduce the cap height. 
  
• Measure the new sleeve armhole sew line. You will want to make sure the sleeve armhole length is the same or slightly longer than the bodice armhole length, but not more than 1/2″ (1.25 cm).

ADJUSTING THE SHOULDER SLOPE

You may find that you need to add or remove length on just one side of the shoulder seam: at the neck point or the shoulder point. This may mean that your body’s shoulder slope is different than the shoulder slope drafted on the pattern. 

To adjust, you are making the same adjustment as above, but just on one side.

• If adding length, add paper and extend the shoulder seam (at the neckline or shoulder point) the desired amount.
  
• If shortening, trim at the neckline or shoulder point.
  
• Then make any necessary adjustments to the bands or sleeve pattern pieces as indicated above.

WIDE OR NARROW SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT

You may find that the shoulder with is not fitting perfectly for you. You can make this adjustment without affecting the neckline or sleeve length.

To adjust the length of your armhole at the shoulders. 

• Cut a straight line from the mid-shoulder point to the upper armhole. Leave a bit of paper at the end of the armhole as a hinge point.
  
• Cut another line from the center of the small triangle piece to the shoulder point.
• Leave a bit of paper at the end of the shoulder point as a hinge point.
  

• For a Wide Shoulder Adjustment: Move the shoulder seam out to create a wider shoulder seam. The small triangles will overlap in the middle. Then retrace the new shoulder seam and armhole to get a smooth shape.
  
• For a Narrow Shoulder Adjustment: Slide the shoulder seam closer together, overlapping. The small triangles will open in the center. Then retrace the new shoulder seam and armhole to get a smooth shape.
  
• Make this same adjustment for the front and back pattern pieces. Since the armholes and neckline lengths did not change, no other adjustments need to be made. 

If you have over 4” (10 cm) between your high bust and full bust, you may need a Full Bust Adjustment to the C/D cup bodice. I still recommend making a muslin/test garment to confirm fit after making this adjustment.

• First decide how much more ease you need through your bust. Add half that amount to your pattern. If you need 1” (2.5 cm), then you will add 1/2” (1.25 cm) to the pattern.
  
• Cut from the waistline (#1) to your bust point (#2) then to the armhole (#3), not cutting all the way through at the armhole.
  
• Then cut from the side seam (#4) to the bust point (#2), without cutting all the way through at the bust point. Lay this on top of a new piece of paper.
  
• Open the ease at the bust, parallel to the hem. This will open ease at points #1 and #4, creating a longer side seam and added length through the center front. Tap this new shape down on the paper.
  
• Trace your new bodice piece, shown in RED, bringing the side seam waist in if you want to maintain the waist size. The center front hem will be longer and the side seam will have a slight curve. 
  
• Place your back pattern piece to measure the side seam length. Trim the excess length from the front hem.
  

I hope this is helpful as you fit the Tess sewing pattern. It’s totally worth the time to make a muslin, make any adjustments, and update your printed pattern. Remember to write down some notes for yourself so that when you come back to the pattern, you know what adjustments you have made. Please let me know if you have any other fit questions, and I can update the post as needed.

Happy Sewing!

XO, Gabriela