Pattern Release / All / Den

THE DEN JACKET PATTERN IS HERE!

We have a new outerwear pattern for you just in time to stay warm! With a name inspired by its cozy features, we are excited to introduce the Den Jacket Pattern. There’s so much to share with you, view options, style lines, fabric options, and fitting advice, so let’s get into it!

The Den Jacket Pattern will be on SALE through
Monday, February 12th
No coupon code is needed!

Den VIEW A || Cropped Length – Unlined
Fabric Source || 9 oz Brushed Bull Denim in Cumin from Blackbird Fabrics
The Den is paired with a RTW dress.

Den VIEW B || Hip Length – Lined
Fabric Source || 12 oz Japanese Denim from Isee Fabric, Flannel lining from Style Maker Fabric
The Den is paired with a RTW white blouse and C+N Isle Flare Jeans in Corduroy.

Den VIEW A || Cropped Length – Lined
Fabric Source || 11.5 oz Jacquard Cotton in Pollen from Merchant and Mills, Flannel lining from Salt Lake Sewciety
The Den is paired with a C+N Shay Dress.

Den VIEW B || Hip Length – Lined
Fabric Source || 25 oz Wool Melton from Surge Fabrics, Flannel lining from Blackbird Fabrics
The Den is paired with a RTW knit top and C+N Isle Flare Jeans.

PATTERN DETAILS

The Den is a woven jacket with an optional lining. There are seam lines in the sleeves, at the front bodice, and at the back yoke which allow for topstitching or color blocking details. The center front placket is extra wide for visual interest.

The sleeve facing acts as a fold-up cuff. The center front closure can be finished with buttons or snaps. I’ve used snaps for all of the photo samples. View A is a cropped length finishing mid-rise. View B is hip length finishing at the lower hips. Both views include front patch pockets and large inseam pockets. The large pockets are oversized and can fit even the biggest phone.

The pattern is listed as INTERMEDIATE sewing level. Den is the perfect pattern to level up or enjoy more intermediate skills like topstitching and adding an optional lining. There are detailed, step-by-step illustrated instructions to guide you along the way, and if you’d like more help, the Chalk and Notch Patterns Facebook Group is a great place to get support. Many of our testers are members there, so you have great resources if you ever need them.

We will also have a photo sew-along soon. Whether this is your first pattern or you’re a seasoned professional, we want to provide you with all the resources you need.

Den VIEW B || Hip Length – Unlined (patch pockets omitted)
Fabric Source || Flannel from Salt Lake Sewciety
The Den is paired with a RTW t-shirt and C+N Isle Wide Leg Jeans.

Den Jacket Size Chart: 0 – 30, With 2 Bust Cup Options

Use the high bust and full bust measurements to determine your size. It is always recommended to sew a test garment to confirm fit. You may want to size up if lining or using a thick fabric.

This pattern includes two bust cup options, and the cup size is determined by calculating the difference between the high and full bust.

If the difference between your high bust and full bust is between 0″ and 2″ (5 cm) use the A/B cup. If the difference is between 2″ (5 cm) and 4″ (10 cm) use the C/D cup. If you have more than a 4″ (10 cm) difference, you may need a full bust adjustment.

Den VIEW A || Cropped Length – Unlined
Fabric Source || 6 oz Everyday Linen in Almond from Blackbird Fabrics
The Den is paired with a C+N Aria Top and Crew Trousers

Garment Ease & Finished Length

This style is designed to have 7″ (18 cm) of ease through the bust. There is 15″ (38 cm) of ease through the waist and 7″ (18 cm) of ease through the hips in the hip length view. When sewing the C/D cup, there will be 2″ (5 cm) of additional ease through the waist and hips in the front bodice. The cropped length finishes mid-rise. Choosing a thicker fabric when adding a lining will reduce the ease.

To find the shoulder to shoulder point, measure from 1″ past your shoulder bone on either side across your back. To find the long sleeve finished length, measure from 1″ (2.5 cm) past the shoulder bone to the wrist. The sleeve is meant to. be worn folded up, so there is additional length. The bicep is measured 1″ (2.5 cm) down from the armhole. To find the finished length of the jacket, measure from the center back neck to the center back hem. The finished length of the cropped version (view A) ends mid-rise above the hips. The finished length of the hip length version (view B) ends at the low hip. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length.

CUSTOM-FITTING ADJUSTMENTS

All our patterns include basic custom fitting adjustments, but you can find more detailed adjustments and fitting advice in our fitting post here. As always, we recommend sewing a muslin or test garment in non-precious fabric first to check the fit before sewing your final version. If you need additional help or have questions, please feel free to email me or join the Chalk and Notch Patterns Facebook Group – I’m always happy to hear from you!

FABRIC & NOTIONS

Main Fabric

We will review the fabric and notion requirements, but if you are looking for specific fabric recommendations and inspiration, you can find more in our fabric post here.

This style is designed for medium to heavy weight woven fabrics but can also be sewn in a lightweight woven for an oversized shirt. Choosing a thicker fabric or lining will reduce the ease so you may want to size up. If using flannel or fleece for the body lining, a slippery lining is recommended for the sleeves.

Recommended Main Fabrics

Medium to heavyweight fabrics like canvas, corduroy, denim, flannel, linen, and twill will all create a beautiful Den. When sewing the Den for the first time, I highly advise that you pick a fabric that is medium weight and holds a press well. More info on fabric recommendations can be found here.

Recommended Body Lining Fabrics

Flannel, fleece, lawn, and linen fabrics make great linings.

Recommended Sleeve Lining Fabrics

For ease of wear, smooth, slippery fabrics like lawn, rayon bemberg, and rayon challis are recommended for the sleeve lining. Flannel can work too, just make sure the hand-feel is smooth.

Fabric Chart

The minimum fabric required is listed. If you think you will need more for shrinkage, directional print, pattern matching or print repeat, please purchase accordingly.

Notions

  • 1 yd (1 m) Tricot Fusible Interfacing
  • Seven to Ten 1/2″ (12.7 mm) Buttons or Snaps for the Center Front. The amount you need will depend on your Jacket length and preferred spacing.
  • Coordinating Thread

Optional Notions

  • Topstitching Thread
  • Tailor’s Chalk or Washable Fabric Marker
  • Turning Tool
  • Stay Tape
  • Pressing Ham

TESTER PHOTOS

Getting to work with talented sewists is always a highlight of testing and our whole Den group was a joy. While styled photos are never a required part of testing, we love sharing any photos that are submitted. Seeing a pattern on a variety of people and in different fabrics can be a valuable tool. Check out the tester post here.

I’d love to see what you come up with, so if you share your makes, please tag @chalkandnotch and use the hashtags #cnden and #chalkandnotchpatterns so I can see your creations.

Thanks for learning more about the Den Jacket!

XO, Gabriela