Pattern Fitting & Custom Adjustments / All / Evelyn

If you are looking for help fitting your Evelyn Skirt, you’ve found the right post! We have put together this post covering the most common fitting adjustments for the Evelyn Skirt. Find fitting posts for each of our patterns in the fitting and custom adjustments library here.

Please check out our Evelyn Tester Inspiration post here if you’re interested in seeing it on a variety of body types. During testing, we work through the fit for each tester, which helps inform what fitting and custom adjustments we talk about in our fitting posts. Most of these adjustments are included in the pattern tutorials, and if more fit questions come up, we will continue to add them to the blog post.

The Evelyn is a high-waisted skirt pattern. View A is fitted through the waist with a high slit, side-front buttons, and the skirt is midi length. View B is fitted through the waist, has side-front buttons, and the skirt is mini length. View C includes an adjustable elastic waist with a high slit, and the skirt is midi length. 

Before we get started, I always like to add a note that the goal should be to create a comfortable garment that you will enjoy wearing. I don’t think it’s important to get rid of every single drag line and pull, so be kind to yourself as you are analyzing your fit. If you have specific questions about fitting the Evelyn skirt, you can always reach out in our Chalk and Notch Facebook Group or email us here.

First things first, make sure you have a copy of the Evelyn Skirt pattern.

HOW TO PICK A SIZE

First, make sure you take new measurements before starting any project because our bodies change, and starting with accurate numbers is the first step to getting a good fit.

Body Measurements

Use the waist and hip measurements to determine your size. If sewing views A or B and your measurements fall between sizes, size up and adjust the fit as needed. If sewing view C, the waist can be adjusted with elastic, and it’s recommended to choose a size based on your hips. It is not recommended to blend to a smaller waist size when sewing view C, as the skirt needs to pull over the hips.

It is always recommended to sew a test garment to confirm fit. Especially if your waist and hips fall into different sizes.

Garment Ease & Finished Garment Measurements

This style sits at your natural waist and is designed to have zero ease through the waist for views A & B. There is 7” of ease in the waist before the elastic is added for view C. There is 3” (7.5 cm) of ease through the hips. The slit height is 14.25” (36 cm) from the waist.

Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length.

MAKING A MUSLIN

I will always advise you to make a muslin or toile (test garment) before cutting into your final fashion fabric. Fabric will affect fit, and you won’t get a feel for the true fit unless you sew it in a comparable fabric. We have a recommended fabric post for the Evelyn skirt here.

CUSTOM ADJUSTMENTS

ADJUSTING THE LENGTH FOR VIEWS A & B

You may want to adjust the slit height or the length of your skirt. To find the slit height, measure from the waist down 14.25 “ (36 cm) on your left leg. The finished length of the midi skirt (views A & C) is about 4” (10 cm) below the knee. The finished length of the mini skirt (view B) ends about 4” (10 cm) above the knee. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if and where you would like to adjust the length. There are two cut lines to help with this adjustment. The first set of cut lines is used to adjust the slit height or the length above the slit. The second set is used to adjust the length below the slit.

  • Decide where you want to adjust the length. You may want to adjust a bit above and below the slit.
  • Cut the front, back, and facing pattern pieces horizontally at the indicated line. 
  • If adding length, add paper and add the amount desired. 
  • If shortening, overlap at the cut line the amount desired.
  • Re-draw the side seams. 

ADJUSTING THE LENGTH FOR VIEW C

When adjusting the slit height or length above the slit, cut lines are indicated on the pattern.

  • If lowering the slit or adding length, add paper and add the amount desired. 
  • If raising the slit or removing length, overlap at the cut line the amount desired.
  • If you only adjust the length above the slit, your slit facing will still match. 

When adjusting the length below the line on view C, it’s easiest to adjust the length at the hem.

  • If adding length, add paper to the hem and add the amount desired. 
  • If shortening, trim the hem the amount desired.
  • Re-draw the side seams if adding length. 
  • Adjust the slit facing to match the new slit length.

BLENDING FOR VIEWS A & B

Use the waist and hip measurements to determine your size. If sewing views A or B and your measurements fall between sizes, size up and adjust the fit as needed. Based on the way the Evelyn is nested, you won’t be able to use the pattern to blend sizes. We have included a 3/4″ (2 cm) center back seam allowance, and in the sewing instructions, we advise finishing the side seams before sewing to help with potential fitting even if you are not making a muslin.

If sewing view C, the waist can be adjusted with elastic, and it’s recommended to choose a size based on your hips. It is not recommended to blend to a smaller waist size when sewing view C, as the skirt needs to pull over the hips.

If your waist is smaller than your hip size: Start by cutting a muslin in the size that corresponds with your hip size. Sew the three skirt pieces and the fused waistband (outer) together. Pin your test garment to adjust your waist, blending to zero at your hips. There is a 3/4” seam allowance at the center back to help with custom adjustments. Transfer your adjustments to your printed pattern and cut your final Evelyn skirt.

If your waist is larger than your hip size: Start by cutting a muslin in the size that corresponds with your waist size. Sew the three skirt pieces and the fused waistband (outer) together. Pin your test garment to adjust your hips, blending to zero at the waist. There is a 3/4” seam allowance at the center back to help with custom adjustments. Transfer your adjustments to your printed pattern and cut your final Evelyn skirt.

ADDING EASE TO THE HIPS

If you prefer more than 3″ (7.5 cm) of ease in the hips, you have three seams where you can add ease: two side seams and the center back seam. 

  • Decide how much ease you would like to add through the hips. We will add 1.5″ (4 cm) more ease in this example.
  • Divide that amount by 6. We have six pieces where we will add ease: both of the side seams on the front and back pattern pieces, and the center back pattern pieces. As a reminder, there are two back pattern pieces.
  • Tape a bit of paper to the side seams. In this case, we can use the extra seam allowances from the center back, but if you are adding more than 1 1/2″ (4 cm), add paper to your center back pattern pieces.
  • Add 1/4″ (0.6 cm) to the hip on the side seam and the center back. There is a notch on the pattern indicating the hip line. You can see the new sew line (dashed) at the center back.
  • Use a ruler to draw a new curve from the waist to the new hip. Continue down the side seam for an a-line shape or curve back to the original hem if you prefer a tapered side seam.
  • Cut out your new pattern with your desired hip ease.

REMOVING LENGTH AT THE CENTER BACK

If you have extra fabric at the center back waist, you can scoop out some length to smooth out the fit. You will likely only see extra fabric if you need this adjustment after making a sample.

  • Pinch out any bulk at the back waist seam with pins.
  • Measure how much length you pinched out.
  • Trim this amount from the center back waistline, blending to zero towards the side seam.

I hope this post helps explain how and when to do custom adjustments while fitting the Evelyn Skirt pattern. It’s totally worth the time to make a muslin, make any adjustments, and update your printed pattern. Remember to write down some notes for yourself so that when you come back to the pattern, you know what adjustments you have made. If you have any other fit questions, please let me know and I can update the post as needed.

Happy Sewing!

XO, Gabriela