Now that pieces have been cut and interfaced, it’s time to begin sewing. We’ll start with staystitching then sew the ruffles for both views.
STAYSTITCH THE NECKLINES
Unless noted, the seam allowance included is 3/8” (1 cm) for joined seams. Clip or mark the notches indicated by “T” marks and “triangles”. Before handling your cut pieces too much, sew a stitch line 1/4” (0.6 cm) away from the fabric edge on the facing necklines and the gussets.
SEW DARTS ON C/D BODICE ONLY
If sewing the C/D bust cup option, sew the bust darts on the front bodice. Press the bust dart bulk down. The bust darts will not be shown in the rest of the photos. For more guidance on darts, visit our How to Sew Darts post linked here.
VIEW A RUFFLED SLEEVES
Follow these steps to create the ruffled sleeves for View A. If you are sewing View B, skip ahead to sew the front ruffle.
SEW THE RUFFLE SLEEVES AT THE SHOULDER SEAMS
Attach the front ruffle to the back ruffle at the shoulder seam. Finish the seam and press the ruffles open. Alternatively, you can join the ruffles with French seams, sewing the WRONG sides together at 1/8” (0.3 cm), then pressing that same seam with RIGHT sides together and sewing at 1/4” (0.6 cm). If you prefer to line your ruffles, do not finish the seam and skip to the next step.
HEM THE RUFFLE SLEEVES
Prep the ruffle sleeve hem by stitching a fold guide at 1/4” (0.6 cm) around the outer edge. Use this stitch line as a guide to press up your hem 1/4” (0.6 cm). Then fold again at 1/4” (0.6 cm); use lots of pins and sew with the wrong side up so you can catch the edge of the turned back hem. Press.
FINISH OPTION 2, LINE THE RUFFLE SLEEVES
If you prefer to fully line the ruffle sleeves, there is no need to finish the shoulder seam using this method (shoulder seams should be pressed open). Sew the ruffle sets right sides together at 1/2” (1.25 cm) along the outer curve. Trim the seam allowance to half and turn right side out. I suggest this method if your fabric is lightweight and has a nice drape.
VIEW B FRONT RUFFLE
HEM THE FRONT RUFFLE
Before hemming, check the length of the front ruffle. If you have a short torso or small bust you may prefer a shorter ruffle; you can remove length from the bottom. Prep the ruffle hem by stitching a baste stitch at 1/4” (0.6 cm) around the outer edge. Use this stitch line as a guide to press up your hem 1/4” (0.6 cm). Then fold again at 1/4” (0.6 cm), using lots of pins and sewing with the wrong side up so you can catch the edge of the turned back hem. Press.
GATHER THE FRONT RUFFLE
Change your stitch length to the longest possible length. Sew two parallel baste stitch lines at the top of the front ruffle. Make sure not to backstitch at the beginning or end of your stitch lines and leave long ends to your threads. The first line is 1/4” (0.6 cm) away from the fabric edge. The second line is 1/2” (1.25 cm) away from the fabric edge. Pull the bobbin threads to gather the top of the ruffle.
SEW THE FRONT RUFFLE TO THE FRONT BODICE
Pin the front yoke ruffle to the front bodice, matching the center front notch with the right sides facing up for both pieces. The outer edges finish 3/8” (1 cm) from the cut edge. Sew in place at 1/4” (0.6 cm).
We’ll be sewing the yokes next.
Farrah Sew Along Posts: Getting Started | Prepare the Bodice and Sew the Ruffles | Sew Front & Back Bodices | Attach the Ruffle Sleeves, Sew Side Seams, and Hem | Sew the Underarm Gusset and Finish the Armhole