Farrah Sew Along | Sew the Underarm Gusset and Finish Armholes

We are almost done sewing our Farrah! Our last steps are to sew the underarm gussets and to finish the armholes.

VIEW A

The following steps finish the upper edge of the underarm gusset for view A. If you are making View B, skip ahead to attaching the gusset to the armhole.

ATTACH BIAS TO THE UNDERARM GUSSET

Pin the bias to the top edge of the gusset and attach at 3/8” (1 cm). The bias will be longer than the top edge. Trim the seam allowance to half to reduce bulk. Press the seam towards the bias.

The underarm bias is shown pinned to the top of the View A gusset.

The underarm bias is shown sewn to the top of the View A gusset.

UNDERSTITCH THE BIAS

Understitch by stitching a line 1/16” (0.15 cm) away from the seam on the bias. Make sure to catch the seam allowance towards the bias when stitching.

A sewing machine is shown understitching the bias of the Farrah sewing pattern armhole.

The armhole bias of the Farrah sewing pattern is shown attached, pressed, and understitched to the gusset.

EDGESTITCH THE BIAS

Flip the gusset so it is wrong side up. Press the bias edge towards the center so the cut edge meets the stitch line. Fold one more time so the bias is lying on the inside of the gusset. Pin in place. Edgestitch the bias from the wrong side, catching the very edge. Trim bias excess. Press.

The armhole bias of the Farrah sewing pattern is shown folded.

The armhole bias of the Farrah sewing pattern is shown pinned to the top of the armhole gusset.

Farrah Armhole gusset is shown with top stitched dowon and sides staystitched.

ATTACH THE GUSSET TO THE ARMHOLE (BOTH VIEWS)

Start pinning the gusset to the armhole with the gusset on top of the bodice for better visibility. The top edge of the gusset starts at the yoke seam, matching the notches. Make sure the “X” at the bottom of the gusset meets the side seam. At the side seam, leave your needle in the down position and clip the corner at a 45 degree angle without cutting into the seam. Pivot your fabric, bring the other side of the gusset to the armhole, matching the notches and ending the gusset at the yoke seam, pin and sew. Repeat for the other side.

Armhole gusset is shown pinned to the side of the Farrah pattern ruffle sleeve blouse.

A sewing machine stitches the bottom of the Farrah blouse and dress armhole gusset

A close up view of the sewn armhole gusset on the Farrah sewing pattern.

FINISH THE GUSSET & ARMHOLE SEAMS

Flip the bodice wrong side out. Clip the “V” point on both sides of the gusset seam to help the corner lie flat. For View A, finish the edges of the exposed gusset and armhole with an overlock, zig zag or you can add bias binding to finish the seam. For View B, finish the edges of only the gusset with an overlock or zig zag and press the seam allowances up.

A pair of scissors cuts the v at the bottom of the armhole gusset for the Farrah sewing pattern.

The inside view of the sewn armhole gusset on the Farrah sewing pattern.

FINISH THE GUSSET SEAMS

Flip the bodice wrong side out. Clip the “V” point on both sides of the gusset seam to help the corner lie flat.

SEW THE BIAS IN A CIRCLE

To finish the armhole with bias binding, sew the bias strips right sides together to form a circle for the armhole. Press the seam allowance open.

Armhole bias for the Farrah Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern is shown flat and pinned in a circle.

Armhole Bias for the Farrah Blouse and Dress sewing pattern is shown sewn in a circle.

SEW BIAS TO THE ARMHOLE

Pin the bias in a circle and attach it to the armhole. Trim the seam allowance to half to reduce bulk. Press the seam allowance toward the bias.

The armhole bias is shown pinned to the right side of the Farrah Blouse and Dress pattern.

The armhole bias is shown sewn to the right side of the Farrah Blouse and Dress pattern.

UNDERSTITCH THE BIAS

Understitch by stitching a line 1/16” (0.15 cm) away from the seam on the bias. Make sure to catch the seam allowance towards the bias when stitching.

A sewing machine foot is shown understitching the Farrah armhole bias tape.

EDGESTITCH THE BIAS

Flip the bodice so it is wrong side up. Press the bias edge towards the seam so the cut edge meets the stitch line. Fold one more time so the bias is lying on the inside of the armhole. Pin in place. Edgestitch the bias from the wrong side, catching the very edge. Start under the ruffle, and as you move around the armhole make sure not to catch the ruffle, and finish right above the ruffle in the front.