We’ll begin sewing our jeans by transferring markings, prepping the center fly, adding interfacing, and sewing the darts.
SEAM ALLOWANCE, MARKINGS & TOPSTITCHING
Unless noted, the seam allowance included is 1/2” (1.25 cm) for joined seams. Clip or mark the notches and pocket placements. The notches are indicated by “T” marks. The pocket placements are indicated by “+” marks and should be marked on the right side of the fabric. Trace the waist dart legs on the wrong side of the fabric. Make sure to use a sewing needle size that works best for the weight of your fabric. You can use topstitching thread when topstitching is called for or regular all-purpose thread.
PREP THE CENTER FRONT FLY
Trim the wearer’s left front extension by 1/4” (0.6 cm). Transfer the notches if they are trimmed off. Clip the wearer’s right front at the bottom of the extension about 1/4” (0.6 cm), stopping before the marked point on the rise. Mark the center front on the wearer’s right front. To do this, connect the marked point on the rise with the notch at the top of the rise. With the waistband facing right side up, trim the right front edge 1/4” (0.6 cm).
STAYSTITCH THE WAISTLINE
The facing waistband will stretch during sewing. Before handling the pattern pieces, staystitch the top edge of the
waistband and the top edge of the front and back pieces 1/4” (0.6cm) from the cut edge.
Attach fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fly guard. Add fusible interfacing pieces to the pocket top edges, fly
extension and waistband. Set the fusible inside the seam allowances for the fly extension and waistband. Tricot fusible interfacing is recommended, but you can use any lightweight fusible interfacing.
SEW THE FLY EXTENSION
With the right sides together, sew the angled edge of the fly extension. The folded edge is the top. Clip the corners and trim the seam allowance to half. Turn right side out, making your corners square. Press and finish the straight edge.
FINISH EXPOSED SEAMS
Finish the edges of the following seams: the curved seam of the fly guard, pocket sides and bottom edges, and one side of the belt loop. Finish the front rise on the right and left sides, making sure not to trim off the extension on the wearer’s right side. Finish the side seams on the front and back pieces.
SEW THE DARTS
Sew the darts. Press the dart bulk towards the center front and center back rise seams.
EDGESTITCH THE DARTS
If the fit is confirmed, edgestitch the darts in place, 1/8” (0.3 cm) away from the seam on the right side of the fabric. If the fit is not confirmed, you can omit this step to make the waist easier to adjust.
In our next post, we’ll construct the front fly and install the zipper.
Isle Jeans Sew Along Posts: Getting Started | Add Interfacing, Prep Center Fly & Sew Darts | Sew Front Rise, Attach Zipper & Sew Front Fly | Sew Back Rise, Attach Pockets, Sew Inseam & Side Seams | Sew & Attach Belt Loops, Attach Pockets & Waistband Facing | Topstitch Fly, Sew Buttonholes, Attach Buttons & Sew Hems