In this post, we’ll be sewing and attaching our belt loops. We’ll also attach our waistband facing.
SEW THE BELT LOOPS
Fold the raw edge of the belt loop in 3/8” (1 cm), wrong sides touching. Fold the finished edge in to just before the previously folded edge. Topstitch the edge at 1/8” (0.3 cm). Cut the belt loops into 5 equal pieces, 3 1/4” (8.25 cm) long. Finish the bottom edge of each belt loop.
SEW THE BELT LOOPS TO THE TOP EDGE OF THE WAISTBAND
Pin the raw edge of the belt loops to the waistline at the top edge. The right side of the belt loops should be facing up. The front belt loops will cover the front darts. The back belt loops attach to the center back seam and the darts closest to the side seams. Sew in place at 1/4” (0.6 cm).
SEW A FOLD GUIDE ON THE WAISTBAND FACING
Sew a fold guide on the bottom (longer) edge of the waistband at just under 1/2” (1.25 cm). Press the outer edge in 1/2” (1.25 cm) wrong sides together.
SEW THE WAISTBAND TO THE WAISTLINE AND UNDERSTITCH
With the right sides together, pin the waistband facing to the waistline. Starting at the center back, match the notches and side seams. The fly guard on the wearer’s left should be folded open (the top of the fly has not been sewn yet). The fly shield on the wearer’s right is folded in towards the jeans, sandwiched between the waistband facing and the front of the jeans. Sew the waistband facing to the waistline, making sure not to catch the fly shield inside. Open the waistband facing seam and understitch the waistband facing by stitching a line 1/16” (0.15 cm) away from the seam. Make sure to catch the seam allowance towards the facing when stitching.
SEW THE WAISTBAND FACING TO THE CENTER FRONT
Flip the waistband to face the jeans with the right sides together. Pin the front edges, and make sure the waistband
facing edges are folded up in place. The top seam allowance will be folded to the front. Sew the waistband facing to the center front on both sides, making sure not to catch the fly shield inside. Fold the corners. Turn the waistband right side out, and use a point turner to smooth out the corners. Press your waistband.
TOPSTITCH THE WAISTBAND
Pin the waistband facing in place with the seam allowance turned under at the pressed line. Topstitch the waistband at just under 2” (5 cm) from the top edge, catching the facing’s folded edge. Alternatively, sew from the inside of the waistband, edgestitching 1/8″ from the folded edge of the facing. If using topstitching thread, use a bobbin loaded with topstitching thread and all-purpose thread in the top needle. Make sure not to catch the belt loops or pull/twist while topstitching. Press.
BAR TACK THE BELT LOOPS
Fold the finished edge of the belt loops under and pin in place. Sew a small zig zag or a backstitch to the top and bottom of the belt loops as a bar tack. Repeat for all of the belt loops.
In the next post, we’ll finish our Isle jeans by finishing the fly, adding buttonholes and buttons, and sewing the hems.
Isle Jeans Sew Along Posts: Getting Started | Add Interfacing, Prep Center Fly & Sew Darts | Sew Front Rise, Attach Zipper & Sew Front Fly | Sew Back Rise, Attach Pockets, Sew Inseam & Side Seams | Sew & Attach Belt Loops, Attach Pockets & Waistband Facing | Topstitch Fly, Sew Buttonholes, Attach Buttons & Sew Hems