We are going to sew the back rise and move on to prepping and attaching the pockets. Then we’ll sew inseam and side seams, which is a great time to check the fit and length of your jeans.
SEW THE BACK RISE & TOPSTITCH
With the right sides together, sew the back rise. Finish the seam. Press the back rise seam allowance towards the wearer’s left side. Edgestitch the seam allowance 1/8” (0.3 cm) away from the seam, and sew a second row of topstitching about 1/4” (0.6 cm) away from the edgestitching.
PREP THE POCKETS
Press the top in 1/2” (1.25 cm) wrong sides together. Flip the pocket over so the fabric is right side up. Fold back 1” (2.5 cm) at the fold/notch line, right sides together, and press. Stitch at 1/2” (1.25 cm) around the sides and bottom of the pocket. This will secure the top hem and act as a fold guide. Flip the top hem right side out. Press the side seams, and edgestitch the top hem just under 1” (2.5 cm). You can lengthen your stitch length during this step. Repeat for all of the pockets.
PIN THE PATCH POCKETS IN PLACE
Pin the front and back patch pockets to the jeans, using the “+” markings for placement. Your pocket will cover the pocket placement markings. Double check your placements from the center front and side seams to make sure your pockets are even.
SEW THE PATCH POCKETS
Edgestitch the pocket in place. You can lengthen your stitch length and use topstitching thread during this step. Sew both rows of stitching in one step by following the illustration. Starting at the top right, edgestitch around the pocket and then go back down for the interior topstitch line back to the start. Watch out for the fly shield when sewing the front pockets. Press and repeat for all of the pockets.
BAR TACK THE TOP OF YOUR POCKETS
To secure the top edge of your pockets, add a small zig zag or a backstitch to the top of your pockets as a bar tack. Repeat for all of the pockets.
SEW THE INSEAM & TOPSTITCH
With the right sides together, sew the front and back inseam. Finish the inseam. Press the seam allowance towards the front. Edgestitch the seam allowance 1/8” (0.3 cm) away from the seam, and sew a second row of topstitching about 1/4” (0.6 cm) away from the edgestitching.
SEW THE SIDE SEAMS
With the right sides together, sew the front and back side seams. Press the seam allowance open. Turn your jeans right
side out. This is a good time to fit check your jeans and length.
The next steps are to sew and attach the belt loops and add the waistband facing.
Isle Jeans Sew Along Posts: Getting Started | Add Interfacing, Prep Center Fly & Sew Darts | Sew Front Rise, Attach Zipper & Sew Front Fly | Sew Back Rise, Attach Pockets, Sew Inseam & Side Seams | Sew & Attach Belt Loops, Attach Pockets & Waistband Facing | Topstitch Fly, Sew Buttonholes, Attach Buttons & Sew Hems