The Isle Jeans include flare and wide leg options, which I love, but once you have dialed in the waist/hip/rise fit of any jeans pattern, having more leg options is always a plus. Today I will walk you through adjusting your Isle jeans to achieve a straight leg or relaxed fit style.


This tutorial is pretty simple, and you can adjust your pattern based on how fitted you want your straight leg style. I was looking for the hips and thighs to be more fitted and the legs to have a relaxed fit. I found that starting from the Flare Leg was helpful since the thigh is already more fitted than the wide leg.

What You Need:

  • The Isle Jeans pattern, in the Flare Leg view.
  • Pattern paper, ruler, and marking tool to draft your straight leg pattern pieces.
  • Fabric, pins, and the notions needed to make the Isle Jeans. We have a kit for sale here.
Supplies for the Isle jeans pattern straight leg tutorial lay on a white background.

Pattern Adjustments

Trace the Isle Flare Leg, front (#1) and back (#2) pattern pieces on paper. I like to use dotted drafting paper, but any paper will do. Draw horizontal lines out at the knee line, 5/8″ (1.5 cm) long. Draw horizontal lines in at the hem notch, 1 1/2″ (3.8 cm) long.

A sewing pattern illustration shows two Isle jean pant legs with red lines for alterations.

Now it’s time to reshape the side seams and inseams. On the side seams, blend from the hip notch to the extended knee line, then blend back into the narrow hemline. On the inseams, start to blend at the thigh (about 2″ down from the crotch point) to the extended knee line and then blend back into the narrow hemline. I included a 1″ (2.5 cm) hem but feel free to add any hem depth you prefer.

Red lines drawn on isle jeans pattern illustrations show where to blend straight leg pieces.

That’s it! You are ready to cut your pattern and fabric. Sew the Isle Jeans pattern as instructed, and don’t forget to check out our Isle photo sew along.

The Final Look

Enjoy your new Isle Jeans! If you use this tutorial tag @chalkandnotch and add the hashtag #islestraightleg so we can see your jeans. Happy Sewing!