Looking for assistance fitting the Ivie? You’ve come to the right place! We have put this post together to cover the most common fitting adjustments you may need for the Ivie sewing pattern. Find fitting posts for each of our patterns in the fitting and custom adjustments library here.
You can check out our Tester Inspiration post here if you’re interested in seeing it on a variety of body types. During testing, we work through the fit for each tester, which helps inform what fitting and custom adjustments we talk about in our fitting posts. Most of these adjustments are included in the pattern tutorials and, if more fit questions come up, we will continue to add them to the blog post.
The Ivie is a woven dress or two-piece set in a maxi length. The three sleeve options are a tank ruffle, a cap sleeve and a 3/4 length sleeve. The neckline, sleeve cuff and waistline are adjustable with drawstrings or elastic. The waistline is designed to sit high at the natural waist. The top is a cropped length. The skirt includes inseam pockets, a large hem ruffle and a drawstring elastic waist. You can also wear the pieces as separates and pair them with loads of pieces from your wardrobe!
Before we get started, I always like to add a note that the goal should be to create a comfortable garment that you will enjoy wearing. I don’t think it’s important to get rid of every single drag line and pull, so be kind to yourself as you are analyzing your fit. If you have specific questions about fitting the Ivie, you can always reach out in our Chalk and Notch Facebook Group or email us here.
HOW TO PICK A SIZE
First, make sure you take new measurements before starting any project because our bodies change, and starting with accurate numbers is the first step to getting a good fit. You will need the following measurements:
High Bust – Measure around your body, above your bust, just under your arms. Make sure your tape is level around your body. Rest your arms at your sides when measuring.
Full Bust – Measure around your body, at the fullest part of your bust. Make sure your tape is level around your body. Rest your arms at your sides when measuring.
Waist – Measure around your body, at the smallest part of your torso. If you are having trouble finding your waist, lean over to one side, your waist is where your body bends.
Hips – Measure around your body, at the fullest part of your hips/bum.
A few other measurements will be helpful. Cross-check these with the finished garment measurement chart to see if you need any custom adjustments.
Center Back to Waist – Measure 1″ above your bra line to your waist at the center back. The finished length of the dress bodice ends high at the natural waist. The finished length of the tank or top bodice is cropped and 3” (7.5 cm) longer than the dress bodice. The added length will give a blouse effect, but the length is still cropped. The finished center back measurements are listed below. Review them to see if you would like to add length to the bodice.
Skirt Length – Measure from the waist to where you want your skirt/dress to finish. The finished length of the skirt is a maxi and ends above the ankle. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length.
BODY MEASUREMENTS
Use the high bust and full bust measurements to determine your size. It is always recommended to sew a test garment to confirm fit.
This pattern includes two bust cup options and the cup size is determined by calculating the difference between the high and full bust. If the difference between your high bust and full bust is between 0″ and 2″ (5 cm) use the A/B cup. If the difference is between 2″ (5 cm) and 4″ (10 cm) use the C/D cup. If you have more than a 4″ (10 cm) difference, you may need a full bust adjustment.
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS
Pick the size for each of the measurements that work best for your body and preferred fit.
REVIEW THE INTENDED EASE & FINISHED LENGTH
BUST – There is 4″ (10 cm) of ease through the bust. Although the neckline is adjustable, there is not a lot of ease. If you are between sizes, I suggest sizing up.
WAIST – Without elastic, there is 12” (30.5 cm) of ease through the waist. If your waist falls in a larger size, you can adjust the length of the elastic without blending sizes if the finished measurement includes enough ease. Review the waist measurement without elastic in the chart above.
HIPS – There is 8” (20 cm) of ease through the hips. When sewing the C/D cup, the front bodice will have 2” (5 cm) of additional ease through the waist and hips. Again, 8″ (20 cm) is not a lot of ease for a gathered skirt, so feel free to size up if you would like a more voluminous skirt.
FINISHED BODICE LENGTH – The finished length of the dress bodice ends high at the natural waist. The finished length of the tank or top bodice is cropped and 3” (7.5 cm) longer than the dress bodice. The added length will give a blousing effect, but the length is still cropped. The finished center back measurements are listed below. Review them to see if you would like to add length to the bodice.
FINISHED SKIRT LENGTH -The finished length of the skirt is a maxi and ends above the ankle. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length.
MAKING A MUSLIN
I will always advise you to make a muslin or toile (test garment) before cutting into your final fashion fabric. When sewing the Ivie for the first time, I advise that you pick a stable woven fabric so that sewing the bias neckline and sleeve hems is easier. We have a recommended fabric post for the Ivie here.
CUSTOM ADJUSTMENTS
There are often many ways to make the same adjustments, and a simple adjustment can affect many areas. The following are the most common adjustments we saw during testing.
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN BODICE
The top or tank is a cropped length, which might not be for everyone. The good news is that it is super easy to add length. First, review the pattern and notice that there are two cut lines for length on the bodice. The dress waist finishes high at the natural waist. The top is cropped but includes more length to allow for a blouse effect. If you decide you would like to add or remove length through the torso, adjust at the lengthen/shorten line on the lower front and back bodice pieces. There is a 3/4” (2 cm) seam allowance for the dress view and a 1” (2.5 cm) seam allowance for the top view.
- Cut the pattern pieces horizontally at the indicated line. Add or remove length.
- Re-draw the side seams.
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN ARMHOLE
If you would like to adjust the armhole length, you can re-tie your drawstring (tighter or looser) and adjust the armhole. If this does not help, then I suggest adding more length to the armhole and sleeve pattern (if adding sleeves). The pattern piece does not include a cut line for this adjustment, but it is easy to do.
- Use the illustration and cut the pattern pieces horizontally approximately where I have drawn a cut line. Add length to the front, bodice, and sleeve pattern (If adding sleeves).
- Re-draw the armhole and neckline curves and recheck the armhole sew lines. You will also need to add a bit more length to the neckline bias.
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN CAP SLEEVE
It is not recommended to shorten the cap sleeve length. A shorter sleeve could cause problems when adding the elastic casing. It is best to add length at the hem if you would like to add length.
- Add paper and extend the underseams.
- Re-draw the hem to include the same curve.
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN 3/4 SLEEVE
The 3/4 sleeve is designed to finish at your forearm. If you would like to add or remove length through the 3/4 sleeve, adjust at the lengthen/shorten line.
- Cut the pattern horizontally at the indicated line. Add or remove length.
- Re-draw the seams.
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN SKIRT
The skirt/dress is designed to finish as a Maxi and ends above the ankle. If you decide you would like to add or remove length in the skirt, adjust the length equally on the upper skirt and ruffle the hem to maintain the design proportions. There is a 2” (5 cm) seam allowance on the ruffle hem.
- Cut the pattern horizontally at the indicated line. Add or remove length.
- Re-draw the seams.
FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT
If you have over 4” (10 cm) between your high bust and full bust, you may need a Full Bust Adjustment to the C/D Cup Bodice.
- First decide how much more ease you need through your bust. Add half that amount to your pattern. If you need 1” (2.5 cm) then you will add 1/2” (1.25 cm) to the pattern.
- Cut from the waistline (#1) to the bust point (#2), then to the armhole (#3), not cutting all the way through at the armhole. Also, cut from the center of the side seam (#4) to the bust point (#2) without cutting all the way through at the bust point. Lay this on top of a new piece of paper.
- Open the ease at the bust (#2), parallel to the hem (#1). This will open ease at the points (#1 & #4), creating a longer side seam and added length through the center front. Tape this new shape down on the paper.
- Trace your new bodice piece, smoothing the side seam and hem. The center front hem will be longer and the side seam will have a slight curve.
- Place your back bodice pattern piece on top of the front bodice to measure the side seam length. Trim the excess length from the side seam.
- Measure your new front bodice hem and add width to your front skirt and front ruffle pattern pieces.
Hopefully, this has been helpful as you navigate fitting the Ivie pattern. It’s totally worth the time to make a muslin, make any adjustments, and update your printed pattern. Remember to write down some notes for yourself so that when you come back to the pattern, you know what adjustments you have made. Please let me know if you have any other fit questions, and I can update the post as needed.
Happy Sewing!
XO, Gabriela
