Now we are ready to sew up the bodice of the Marcel. This will be the same for any view. There is one additional step at the end if you are sewing the Mini Marcel (kids’ version). You can watch the video or read through below.

SEW BODICE AND BODICE FACING SIDE SEAMS

Marcel front and back bodice pieces are shown right sides together with seams sewn on the left and right.

With right sides together, pin the back bodice to the front bodice at the side seams. Sew and press the seams open. Repeat for the bodice facing pieces. 

DETERMINE THE BODICE FACING

The bodice and the bodice facing pieces look very similar; the facing pieces have 1/8” (0.3 cm) trimmed from the neckline to help them roll to the inside. Label them if you are worried about confusing them.

If you are sewing the Mini Marcel, the bodice and bodice facings pieces are the same. You can trim 1/8” (0.3 cm) from the neckline on one set to help them roll to the inside. Label the trimmed set as the bodice facing.

PREP THE BODICE FACING HEM

A line of stitching is shown 1/4" up from the bottom edge of the Marcel bodice

Prep the bodice facing hem by stitching a fold guide at 1/4” (0.6 cm). 

One Marcel bodice is shown with 1/4" folded and pressed to inside while another is shown with the bottom edge serged.

Press the hem up 1/4” (0.6 cm), wrong sides together. Alternatively, you can finish the hem with an overlock stitch instead of folding up the hem edge. Set facings aside. 

BASTE STITCH THE STRAPS TO THE BODICE

Marcel bodice is shown with straps placed right sides together and stitched to the top.

Pin one end of the straps to the right side of the bodice front and back. Make sure not to twist the straps. Use a baste stitch (a stitch with a longer length) across the strap at 1/4” (0.6 cm). A baste stitch will make it easier to remove if you are testing the strap length. 

CONFIRM LENGTH & SEW

If you haven’t made a test garment, now is a good time to try on the bodice and check the strap length. Make any necessary adjustments, and then sew and secure the straps in place at 1/4” (0.6 cm).

SEW BODICE FACING TO THE BODICE

Move the straps down and out of the way. With right sides together, pin the bodice facing to the bodice at the front and back neckline. Sew at 3/8” (1 cm), pivoting at the strap corners and going all the way around the bodice. This will give a second line of stitching where the straps are attached. 

Check the straps to make sure the corners look good. Then trim the seam allowance. I prefer to trim the seam allowance over clipping before turning right side out.

UNDERSTITCH NECKLINE

Open the bodice, lay flat and finger press the neckline seam allowance towards the facing. Understitch the neckline as far as you can go, skipping the front straps and continuing around the back. Catch the seam allowance towards the facing. 

Turn the bodice right side out and press the neckline. Set your finished bodice aside.

ADD ELASTIC TO THE MINI MARCEL AT THE CENTER BACK

If you’re making the Mini Marcel, you’ll want to add elastic to the center back to achieve a better fit. Feel free to check out our video or read on below.

First, sew a ½” casing to thread the elastic through.

Thread the elastic (with safety pins on both sides) through and secure at one end.

Pull the elastic to the desired length and secure the other end. Set your finished bodice aside.

Next up, we’ll sew the side panels.


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