We are ready to get started sewing! In this post, we’ll demonstrate how to sew the shoulder seams, and side seams, and how to attach the facings to the armholes. These steps apply to all three views of the Max tee.
SEAM ALLOWANCES & OPTIONAL FUSIBLE
Unless noted, the seam allowance included is 3/8” (1 cm) for joined seams and all joined seams should be sewn with a stretch stitch. Clip or mark the notches indicated by “T” marks and “triangles”. Attach the optional fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the armhole facing pieces. Using Tricot Fusible Interfacing on the armhole facing pattern pieces can accentuate the shoulder shape and works best on a stable knit. Fusible will not be included in the tutorial illustrations.
SEW THE SHOULDER SEAMS
With the right sides together, sew the shoulder seams. Press the seams to the back.
SEW THE SIDE SEAMS
With the right sides together, sew the side seams. Press the seams to the back.
OPTIONAL FINISH THE FACING EDGES
Finish the edge of the facings. For the armholes, finish the outer, longer edge without the notches (all views). For the neck facings, finish the lower edge without the notches. For the hem facing, finish the top edge without the notches. Set the hem and neck facings aside. Disregard the neck and hem facings if adding a neckband or sewing the cropped view.
SEW THE FACINGS
With the right sides together, sew the front armhole facing to the back armhole facing at the shoulder seam and side seams (all views). With the right sides together, sew the optional front neck facing and back neck facing at the shoulder seams. With the right sides together, sew the optional front hem facing to the back hem facing at the side seams. Press the seams open. Disregard the neck and hem facings if adding a neckband or sewing the cropped view.
SEW THE ARMHOLE FACINGS TO THE ARMHOLES
With the right sides together, sew the armhole facing to the bodice armhole, matching the notches. Trim your seam allowance to half. If your fabric is thick, grade your seams by trimming the facing seam allowance to 1/8” (0.3 cm) and the armhole seam allowance to 1/4” (0.6 cm). Clip curves and remove bulk from the underarm point. Press the seams towards the facings. Repeat for the other side.
OPTIONAL UNDERSTITCH THE ARMHOLE FACINGS
To help your facings stay to the inside of your garment, it is recommended to understitch the armhole facings. Understitch by stitching a line 1/16” (0.15 cm) away from the seam. Make sure to catch the seam allowance towards the facing when stitching.
EDGESTITCH THE ARMHOLE FACINGS IN PLACE
Press the armhole facing towards the inside of the bodice and pin in place. Lengthen your stitch length a bit. Start at the side seam and sew from the wrong side during this step. Edgestitch the armhole facing in place at 1/16” (0.15 cm). When stitching from the wrong side, make sure your bobbin thread matches the right side of your garment. Press.
Next, we’ll be finishing the necklines of all three views. We’ll show how to attach the rib neckband, mock neckband, and the neck facings.
Max Tee Sew Along Posts: Getting Started | Sew Shoulder Seams, Side Seams, and Armhole Facings | Sew the Neckbands and Neck Facings | Sew the Hem and Hem Facing