We’re going to continue sewing and assemble the front and back bodices of our Orchid dresses. We will attach the yokes, sew on bias binding, and learn how to clean finish the yokes and shoulder seams.
ATTACH FRONT YOKE TO FRONT BODICE
With the right sides together, pin the front yoke to the front bodice, adjusting the gathering to match the notches. Sew at 3/8” (1 cm) and finish the seam. Remove any visible basting stitches and press the seam allowance up.
ATTACH THE BIAS TO THE FRONT NECKLINE
With the right sides together, pin the front bias to the center front edge of the bodice and sew at 3/8” (1 cm). The bias will be longer than the front bodice edge. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4” (0.6 cm) to reduce bulk.
UNDERSTITCH THE BIAS
Press the seam allowance towards the bias. Understitch the bias and catch the seam allowance with your stitching.
Flip the bodice so it’s wrong side up. Fold and press the bias edge so it meets the stitch line.
FOLD BIAS AGAIN AND EDGESTITCH
Fold one more time so the bias is lying on the inside of the bodice. Pin in place. Edgestitch the bias from the wrong side, catching the very edge. Trim bias excess at the shoulder and waist edges. Press. Repeat for the other front bodice.
ATTACH BACK YOKE TO THE BACK BODICE
With the right sides together, pin the back yoke (no Interfacing) to the back bodice, adjusting the gathering to match the notches. Sew at 1/4” (0.6 cm). Press the yoke seam allowances up.
ATTACH THE BACK YOKE FACING AT THE NECKLINE
With the back bodice and yoke (no interfacing) up, place the yoke facing (with interfacing) face down, right sides together. Pin at the neckline, sew the neck seam at 3/8” (1 cm) and clip the curved edges. Turn the yokes right side out.
UNDERSTITCH THE NECKLINE
Open the facing, lay flat and press the seam allowance towards the yoke facing (with interfacing). Understitch the yoke facing. Make sure to catch the seam allowance towards the facing (with interfacing) and stop 1” (2.5 cm) from each shoulder seam. Turn right side out and press.
ROLL HEM UP
Take the bodice and roll it from the hem towards the yoke. Continue all the way up until all of the bodice is rolled up.
CLEAN FINISH THE YOKE SEAM
Flip the yokes so the right sides are together with the bodice rolled between the neckline and yoke seam. Pin the yoke seams and sew at 3/8” (1 cm) to clean finish the yoke. Trim the seam (with interfacing) to reduce bulk.
TURN RIGHT SIDE OUT AND PRESS
Turn the back bodice right side out and remove any visible basting stitches. Press the yoke and neckline seams.
ATTACH SHOULDER SEAM
Place the front bodice right side down on the back yoke. Pin the back yoke (no interfacing) and the front yoke at the shoulder. Be careful to match the seams at the neckline. Sew a baste stitch at 1/4” (0.6 cm) to secure in place. Twist the shoulder seam and pin the right side of the back facing (with interfacing) to the wrong side of the front yoke at the shoulder seam. Sew at 3/8” (1 cm) to enclose the shoulder seams.
Trim the seam (with interfacing) and clip the neckline corner to reduce bulk.
TURN SHOULDER RIGHT SIDE OUT AND PRESS
Turn the front and back bodices right side out and press the yoke and neckline seams. Repeat for the other shoulder seam.
Next, we’ll sew the side seams and add the ruffle sleeves to View A and the long gathered sleeves to View B.
Orchid Sew Along Posts: Getting Started | Prepare Bodice, Sew Darts and Ties | Sew Front and Back Bodices | Sew Side Seams and Sleeves | Sew Pockets and Side Seams | Sew Mitered Corners and Hem Skirt | Sew Waistband Casing and Attach Bodice to Skirt