Pixie / Pattern Fitting & Custom Adjustments / All

If you are looking for any help fitting your Pixie you are in the right place! We have put together this post covering the most common fitting adjustments for the Pixie Tee and Dress. We have been working to have fitting posts for all of our patterns, you can find our fitting and custom adjustments library here.

Please check out our Pixie Tester Inspiration post here if you’re interested in seeing the Pixie on a variety of body types. During testing, we work through the fit for each tester, which helps inform what fitting and custom adjustments we talk about in our fitting posts. These adjustments are included in the pattern tutorials, but if more fit questions come up, we will continue to add them to the blog posts.

Before we get started, I always like to add a note that the goal should be to create a comfortable garment that you will enjoy wearing. I don’t think it’s important to get rid of every single drag line and pull, so be kind to yourself as you are analyzing your fit. If you have specific questions about fitting the Pixie, you can always reach out in our Chalk and Notch Facebook Group or email us here.

First things first, make sure you have a copy of the Pixie or the Mini Pixie!

HOW TO PICK A SIZE

First, make sure you take new measurements before starting any project because our bodies change, and starting with accurate numbers is the first step to getting a good fit. When fitting the Pixie, you will want your high bust and full bust body measurements. If you fall between sizes, size down. For the most part, the waist and hips are not going to inform your decision on which size to pick, but if you have concerns you can reference all the body measurements.

Line drawings for the Pixie Tee pattern are shown in black and white.

Cup Size

The cup size is determined by calculating the difference between the high bust and full bust. If the difference between the high bust and full bust is between 0” and 2” (5 cm), use the A/B cup. If the difference is between 2” (5 cm) and 4” (10 cm), use the C/D cup. If you have more than a 4” (10 cm) difference, you may need a full bust adjustment. More details on a full bust adjustment below.

Body Measurements

It is very common to fall across a few different sizes. After you determine what cup size to make, pick a size that works for your high bust and full bust. Based on the intended oversized fit of the Pixie, if you fall between sizes, you can size down.

Finished Garment Measurements

This style is designed to have 5” (12.5 cm) of ease through the full bust. There is 5” (12.5 cm) of ease through the hips. 

Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length. For reference, the center back to hem measurement is taken from your back neck to the finished hem of the dress or top. It might be helpful to have someone help you take this measurement.

The finished length of the top ends at the hips. The finished length of the dress ends above the knee. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length.

MAKING A MUSLIN

I will always advise you to make a muslin or toile (test garment) before cutting into your final fashion fabric. Fabric will affect fit, and you won’t get a feel for the real fit unless you sew it in a comparable knit fabric. This pattern sews up pretty quick and hopefully, you will want a few in your wardrobe!

CUSTOM ADJUSTMENTS

Chalk and Notch patterns are designed for a height of around 5’7″ (174 cm), but all of the Chalk and Notch patterns are tested on a range of heights. Length is a personal preference and can be adjusted to suit your preference. For reference, I am 5′ 1″ (155 cm) and I make the following length adjustments. I remove 1.5″ (4 cm) from the Top views, and 3″ (7.5 cm) from the Dress. As a reminder, everyone carries length in different places so measuring the pattern and your body is the best way to gauge if you need to adjust the length.

Woman wearing a black tee with white stripes stands in front of white background.

ADJUSTING THE BODICE LENGTH

To find the finished length, measure from the center back neck to the center back hem. The finished length of the top ends at the hips. The finished length of the dress ends above the knee. To adjust the bodice length:

  • Cut the pattern horizontally at the indicated line. Shown in RED.
  • If adding length, add paper and add the amount desired.
  • If shortening, overlap at the cut line the amount desired.
  • Re-draw the side seams. 
Pixie pattern line drawings are shown in black with red lines indicating where to cut to add or remove length.

ADJUSTING THE SLEEVE LENGTH

The short sleeve is designed to finish mid-bicep. The long sleeve is designed to finish at the wrist. To adjust the sleeve length:

  • Cut the pattern horizontally at the indicated line. Shown in RED.
  • If adding length, add paper and add the amount desired.
  • If shortening, overlap at the cut line the amount desired.
  • Re-draw the side seams. 
Pixie pattern sleeve line drawings are shown in black with red lines indicating where to add or remove length.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT

If you have over 4” (10 cm) between your high bust and full bust, you may need a Full Bust Adjustment. Use the C/D Cup Bodice.

  • First decide how much more ease you need through your bust. Add half that amount to your pattern. If you need 1” (2.5 cm) then you will add 1/2” (1.25 cm) to the pattern. 
  • Cut from the waistline (#1) to the bust point (#2) then to the armhole (#3), not cutting all the way through at the armhole. Also cut from the center of the side seam (#4) to the bust point (#2) without cutting all the way through at the bust point. Lay this on top of a new piece of paper.
  • Open the ease at the bust (#2), parallel to the hem (#1), shown in PINK. This will open ease at the points (#1 & #4), creating a longer side seam and added length through the center front. Tape this new shape down on the paper.
  • Trace your new bodice piece, shown in RED, smoothing the side seam and hem. The center front hem will be longer and the side seam will have a slight curve.
  • Place your back pattern piece on top of the front bodice to measure the side seam length. Trim the excess length from the hem and add back hem notches.
  • You have completed the FBA. 

I hope this post helps explain how and when to do custom adjustments while fitting the Pixie pattern. It’s totally worth the time to make a muslin, make any adjustments, and update your printed pattern. Remember to write down some notes for yourself so that when you come back to the pattern, you know what adjustments you have made. If you have any other fit questions, please let me know and I can update the post as needed.

Happy Sewing!

XO, Gabriela