Pony / Pattern Fitting & Custom Adjustments / All

You are in the right place to get help fitting your Pony! We have put together this post covering the most common fitting adjustments for the Pony Tank Top and Dress. We hope that walking through these adjustments you will feel confident making your Pony fit YOU! We have been working to have fitting posts for all of our patterns, you can find our fitting and custom adjustments library here.

Please check out our Pony Tester Inspiration post here if you’re interested in seeing the Pony on a variety of body types. During testing, we work through the fit for each tester, which helps inform what fitting and custom adjustments we talk about in our fitting posts. These adjustments are included in the pattern tutorials, but if more fit questions come up, we will continue to add them to the blog posts.

Woman wearing black v-neck Pony Tank Top stands in front of stone wall.

Before we get started, I always like to add a note that the goal should be to create a comfortable garment that you will enjoy wearing. I don’t think it’s important to get rid of every single drag line and pull, so be kind to yourself as you are analyzing your fit. If you have specific questions about fitting the Pony, you can always reach out in our Chalk and Notch Facebook Group or email us here.

First things first, make sure you have a copy of the Pony or the Mini Pony!

Woman wearing knee length v-neck Pony Tank dress stands in front of cinderblock fence.

HOW TO PICK A SIZE

First, make sure you take new measurements before starting any project because our bodies change, and starting with accurate numbers is the first step to getting a good fit. When fitting the Pony, you will want your high bust and full bust body measurements. If you fall between sizes, size up. For the most part, the waist and hips are not going to inform your decision on which size to pick, but if you have concerns you can reference all the body measurements.

Line drawings of a V-neck tank in cropped, tank top, and tank dress views are shown in black and white.

Cup Size

The cup size is determined by calculating the difference between the high bust and full bust. If the difference between the high bust and full bust is between 0” and 2” (5 cm), use the A/B cup. If the difference is between 2” (5 cm) and 4” (10 cm), use the C/D cup. If you have more than a 4” (10 cm) difference, you may need a full bust adjustment. More details on a full bust adjustment below.

Body Measurements

It is very common to fall across a few different sizes. After you determine what cup size to make, pick a size that works for your high bust and full bust. For the Pony, if you fall between sizes, size up.

Pony Tank size chart is shown.

Finished Garment Measurements

The bust includes 0.5” (1.25 cm) of ease. There is 13” (33 cm) of ease through the waist.

Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length. For reference, the center back to hem measurement is taken from your back neck to the finished hem of the dress or tank. It might be helpful to have someone help you take this measurement.

There are three views. The finished length of the cropped tank ends right below the natural waist (view A). The finished length of the tank top ends at the low hip and the back is longer than the front (view B), and the finished length of the tank dress ends above the knee (view C).

A black and white chart showing the finished garment measurements for the Pony tank is shown.

MAKING A MUSLIN

I will always advise you to make a muslin or toile (test garment) before cutting into your final fashion fabric. Fabric will affect fit, and you won’t get a feel for the real fit unless you sew it in a comparable knit fabric. This pattern sews up pretty quick and hopefully, you will want a few in your wardrobe!

CUSTOM ADJUSTMENTS

Chalk and Notch patterns are designed for a height of around 5’7″ (174 cm), but all of the Chalk and Notch patterns are tested on a range of heights. Length is a personal preference and can be adjusted to suit your preference. For reference, I am 5′ 1″ (155 cm) and I make the following length adjustments. I remove 1.5″ (4 cm) from the Cropped and Tops views, and 3″ (7.5 cm) from the Dress. As a reminder, everyone carries length in different places so meauring the pattern and your body is the best way to gauge if you need to adjust the length.

Woman wearing a cropped v-neck tank top stands in front of a white background.

ADJUSTING THE BODICE LENGTH

To find the finished length, measure from the center back neck to the center back hem. The finished length of the cropped tank ends right below the natural waist (view A). The finished length of the tank top ends at the low hip and the back is longer than the front (view B), and the finished length of the tank dress ends above the knee (view C). For this pattern it’s easiest to adjust the bodice length at the hem. 

  • If adding length, add paper and add the amount desired by extending the side seams and center front or center back (shown in solid red).
  • If shortening, trim the hem (shown in dashed red).
Line drawings showing the front and back pattern pieces are shown in black and white.

ADJUSTING THE ARMHOLE LENGTH

If you need more or less length in the armhole, you can adjust at the armhole. 

  • Add length by dropping the armhole (shown in dashed red) or remove length by raising the armhole (shown in solid red).

ADJUSTING THE ARMBANDS

If adjusting more than 1/2” (1.25 cm) at the armhole, the armhole bands will need to be adjusted as well to reflect the change. The armhole bands are 90% the length of the opening, plus seam allowance. 

  • Measure the new length of the armhole at the sew line.
  • Multiply the length by .90 and add 3/4” (2 cm) for the seam allowance. This is the new length for your armhole bands. 
  • The notches are placed equal distance apart to separate the bands in 4 equal lengths.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT

If you have over 4” (10 cm) between your high bust and full bust, you may need a Full Bust Adjustment. Use the C/D Cup Bodice.

  • First decide how much more ease you need through your bust. Add half that amount to your pattern. If you need 1” (2.5 cm) then you will add 1/2” (1.25 cm) to the pattern. 
  • Cut from the waistline (#1) to the bust point (#2) then to the armhole (#3), not cutting all the way through at the armhole. Also cut from the bust notch on the side seam (#4) to the bust point (#2) without cutting all the way through at the bust point. Lay this on top of a new piece of paper.
  • Open the ease at the bust (#2), parallel to the hem (#1), shown in PINK. This will open ease at the points (#1 & #4), creating a longer side seam and added length through the center front. Tape this new shape down on the paper.
  • Trace your new bodice piece, shown in RED, smoothing the side seam and hem. The center front hem will be longer and the side seam will have a slight curve.
  • Place your back pattern piece to measure the side seam length. Trim the excess length from the hem.
  • You have completed the FBA. 

I hope this post helps explain how and when to do custom adjustments while fitting the Pony pattern. It’s totally worth the time to make a muslin, make any adjustments, and update your printed pattern. Remember to write down some notes for yourself so that when you come back to the pattern, you know what adjustments you have made. If you have any other fit questions, please let me know and I can update the post as needed.

Happy Sewing!

XO, Gabriela