Reya / Pattern Fitting & Custom Adjustments / All

In need of extra help fitting the Reya sewing pattern? You’ve come to the right place! We’ve put this post together covering the most common fitting adjustments you might need when making Reya. Find fitting posts for each of our patterns in the fitting and custom adjustments library here.

You can check out our Tester Inspiration post here if you’re interested in seeing it on a variety of body types. During testing, we work through the fit for each tester, which helps inform what fitting and custom adjustments we talk about in our fitting posts. Most of these adjustments are included in the pattern tutorials and, if more fit questions come up, we will continue to add them to the blog post.

The Reya is a wide leg pants and shorts sewing pattern with a pintuck front detail. The waist is finished with elastic and optional drawstring. There is a high-rise and mid-rise option. There are four inseam lengths for the pants view: 26″ (66 cm), 28″ (71 cm), 30″ (76 cm) and 32″ (81 cm). The shorts inseam is 3″ (7.5 cm). Both views include optional side inseam pockets and back pockets.

Before we get started, I always like to add a note that the goal should be to create a comfortable garment that you will enjoy wearing. I don’t think it’s important to get rid of every single drag line and pull, so be kind to yourself as you are analyzing your fit. If you have specific questions about fitting Reya, you can always reach out in our Chalk and Notch Facebook Group or email us here.

HOW TO PICK A SIZE

First, make sure you take new measurements before starting any project because our bodies change, and starting with accurate numbers is the first step to getting a good fit. You will need the following measurements:

Waist – Measure around your body, at the smallest part of your torso. If you are having trouble finding your waist, lean over to one side, your waist is where your body bends.
Hips – Measure around your body, at the fullest part of your hips/bum.

A few other measurements will be helpful. Cross-check these with the finished garment measurement chart to see if you need any custom adjustments. The rise should have about 1/2″ (1.25 cm) to 3/4″ (2 cm) of ease. Since the rise will not sit flush with your body, your inseam may also be longer than you would find in a pair of tight-fitting jeans.

Front Rise – Measure from mid-crotch to where you want your your front rise to finish.
Back Rise – Measure from mid-crotch to where you want your your front back to finish.
Inseam – Measure from your crotch to where you want your pants or shorts to finish.

BODY MEASUREMENTS

Use the hip measurement to determine your size. The waist is adjustable based on the drawstrings and elastic. It is always recommended to sew a test garment to confirm fit.

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

Pick the size and rise length that work best for your body and preferred fit.

REVIEW THE INTENDED EASE & FINISHED LENGTH

WAIST – Without elastic, there is 9.5” (24 cm) of ease through the waist. If your waist falls in a larger size, you can adjust the length of the elastic without blending sizes if the finished measurement includes enough ease. Review the waist measurement without elastic in the chart above.

HIPS – There is 4.5” (11.5 cm) of ease through the hips. If you prefer more ease in your hips, size up.

RISE – There are two rise options. The high-rise should sit at your natural waist, above your navel. The mid-rise is 1 3/4″ (4.5 cm) lower and will sit at your navel or just below.

INSEAM LENGTH – There are four pants inseam lengths: 26” (66cm), 28” (71 cm), 30” (76 cm) and 32” (81 cm). The shorts inseam is 3” (7.50 cm). These are the pattern inseam lengths and may feel longer since the rise will sit about 3/4” (2 cm) lower than your body rise. 

POCKETS – Both views include optional side inseam pockets and back pockets. Feel free to omit them if you prefer.

MAKING A MUSLIN

I will always advise you to make a muslin or toile (test garment) before cutting into your final fashion fabric. If you’d like additional guidance choosing fabric, we have a recommended fabric post for the Reya pattern here.

CUSTOM ADJUSTMENTS

There are often many ways to make the same adjustments, and a simple adjustment can affect many areas. The following are the most common adjustments we saw during testing.

ADJUSTING THE UPPER RISE/WAISTLINE HEIGHT

There are two rise options. The intention is that the high-rise will sit high at your natural waist, above your navel, and the mid-rise is 1.75” (4.5 cm) lower and will sit at your navel or just below. Based on your body rise measurements, cut the pattern based on your preference. Mark the buttonhole placement for your preferred rise. Make sure to cut the correct rise length on your pocket and pocket-facing pattern pieces as well.



You may want to adjust the rise after testing the drafted rise. You can adjust the front and back pieces or just one or the other. To adjust the rise length the same on both pattern pieces: 

  • Cut the front and back pattern pieces horizontally at the indicated line.
  • If adding length, add paper and add the desired amount.
  • If shortening, overlap at the cut line the amount desired.
  • Re-draw the side seams and crotch curve

To shorten the front rise: 

  • Cut the front horizontally at the mid-rise, stopping just before the side seam. 
  • Overlap the center front at the cut line the amount desired while pivoting from the side seam. 
  • Re-draw the side seams and crotch curve. 
  • When adjusting the rise, you might see that your grainline/pintuck will need to be updated. Use the center of the hem and draw a straight line up the center of the front pants/shorts. 

To lengthen the back rise:

  • Cut the back horizontally at the mid-rise, stopping just before the side seam.
  • Add paper and add the amount desired in a wedge shape.
  • Re-draw the side seams and crotch curve.

ADJUSTING THE LOWER RISE AND THIGHS AT THE INSEAM

The rise curve will affect the lower rise length and the thigh width. If you need to adjust the lower rise and thigh, the following adjustment is helpful. 

To adjust the rise length and thigh width, you can re-draw the rise to reduce or increase length and width. 

SCOOPING OUT THE BACK RISE

If you find extra fabric on your finished sample though the back rise seam it can be helpful to scoop out the back rise shape. This will get rid of extra fabric and lengthen the back rise seam.

To adjust the pattern, scoop out the back curve based on how much fabric you can pinch through the back. You can also do this adjustment after sewing if needed.

ADJUSTING THE LENGTH


There are four pants inseam lengths: 26” (66cm), 28” (71 cm), 30” (76 cm) and 32” (81 cm). The shorts include a 3” (7.5 cm) inseam. These are the pattern inseam lengths and may feel longer since the rise will sit about 3/4” (2 cm) lower than your body rise. For the pants, you can adjust the length at the hem. Trim or add length. If you leave extra length, you can trim and hem after sewing. 

For the shorts, you can adjust the length at the indicated cut line. To adjust the length on both pattern pieces:

  • Cut the front and back pattern pieces horizontally at the indicated line.
  • If adding length, add paper and add the desired amount.
  • If shortening, overlap the amount desired at the cut line.
  • Fold the hem up 2″ (5 cm) and redraw the inseam and side seams.

BLENDING SIZES

If your waist is smaller than your hips by two or more sizes, you can blend sizes. Print both sizes, blend the smaller waist size to the large hip size. Smooth out the side seams and rise.

If your waist is bigger than your hips by a few sizes, there is no need to print multiple sizes. Choose a size that fits your hips and use a longer elastic. There is 10″ (25.5 cm) of ease through the waist before the elastic is attached.

If your waist is bigger than your hips by three sizes, I suggest picking a size in the middle and using a longer elastic for your waist.

I hope you’ve found this informative and helpful while fitting the Reya pattern. Here’s your quick reminder that it’s totally worth the time to make a muslin, make any adjustments, and update your printed pattern. Remember to write down some notes for yourself so that when you come back to the pattern, you know what adjustments you have made. Please let me know if you have any other fit questions, and I can update the post as needed.

Happy Sewing!

XO, Gabriela