{"id":23302,"date":"2019-10-07T16:30:34","date_gmt":"2019-10-07T23:30:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.chalkandnotch.com\/?p=23302"},"modified":"2023-03-06T17:47:52","modified_gmt":"2023-03-07T01:47:52","slug":"crew-fitting-custom-adjustments","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.chalkandnotch.com\/crew-fitting-custom-adjustments\/","title":{"rendered":"Crew Fitting & Custom Adjustments"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

I’ve started writing more extensive fitting and custom adjustment posts this year, and I hope that you find them helpful. Today I have a post all about the Crew Shorts & Trousers<\/a>. I have a Pinterest<\/a> board for each of my patterns, and for the Crew I added a section for pant fitting resources<\/a> that I found helpful when analyzing fit issues.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fabric || Sulb Linen Blend in Rose<\/a> from Style Maker Fabrics<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It’s totally normal for most people to need some sort of custom adjustment, and for pants it is common to need more than one adjustment. This post walks you through some of the more common ones I’ve seen pop up while testing the Crew Shorts & Trousers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fabric || Burgundy Tencel Twill<\/a> from Style Makers Fabric<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I also always like to add a note that the goal should be to create a comfortable garment that you will enjoy wearing. I don’t think it’s important to get rid of every single dragline and pull, so be kind to yourself as you are analyzing your fit. If you have specific questions, you can always reach out to our Chalk and Notch Facebook Group<\/a> or email us here<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fabric || Rayon Chambray<\/a> from La Mercerie<\/p>\n\n\n\n

First things first, make sure you have a copy of the Crew Pattern<\/a>!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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HOW TO PICK A SIZE<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

First, make sure you take new measurements before starting any project because our bodies change, and starting with accurate numbers is the first step to getting a good fit. For this pattern, you want your waist (the narrowest part or where you want your trousers to finish), hips (widest part), thigh (2″ down from the top of your leg), front rise (front waist to the middle of your crotch), back rise (back waist to the middle of your crotch), and inseam (crotch to knee & knee to ankle) body measurements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Body Measurements<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

It is very common to fall across a few different sizes. Take into consideration your waist and hips measurement when deciding what size to make. If you fall across a few sizes, print them all and I will show you a few options on how to blend them below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Garment Measurements<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Use the garment measurement chart to review the intended amount of ease included in the pattern. This style is designed to have 0.5\u201d (1.2 cm) of ease through the waist and 7.5\u201d (19 cm) of ease through the hips. It is recommended to have 4\u201d (10 cm) of ease through the shorts thigh, and 3\u201d (7.5 cm) of ease through the trouser thigh. You may blend sizes based on your ease and fit preference.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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MAKING A MUSLIN<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I will always advise you to make a muslin or toile (test garment) before cutting into your final fashion fabric. You can muslin your Crew trousers by cutting the pattern mid-thigh so that you can save on fabric. If you plan on making the pants, do not use the shorts as a muslin since it has a different rise and thigh.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fabric will affect fit, and you won’t get a feel for the real fit unless you sew it in a comparable fabric.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CUSTOM ADJUSTMENTS<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

For reference, Chalk and Notch patterns are designed for a height of around 5’7″ (174 cm). The fit models are all over 5’7″ (174 cm), but all of the Chalk and Notch patterns are tested on a range of heights.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

ADJUSTING THE RISE<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

After reviewing the garment measurements, the length of your rise may need to be adjusted. I have found that rise length does not correlate to height. Your rise length takes into account your tummy, bum, and thighs. Take your body measurements by measuring from the center of your crotch to your natural waist on both the front and back. Use these measurements and compare them to the finished garment measurements. You will want the garment to be longer than your body to accommodate a relaxed fit. The rise ease is a bit of personal preference, but I would advise that you want the garment to be around 1\/2″ – 3\/4″ longer than your body rise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n