Noe Fitting and Custom Adjustments

Need help perfecting the fit of the Noe Dress and Top pattern? You’ve come to the right place! This post covers the most common fitting adjustments for the Noe. Find fitting posts for each of our patterns in the sew along library here.

You can check out our Tester Inspiration post here if you’re interested in seeing it on a variety of body types. During testing, we work through the fit for each tester, which helps inform the fitting and custom adjustments we discuss in our fitting posts. Most of these adjustments are included in the pattern tutorials, and if more fit questions come up, we will continue to add them to this blog post.

The Noe is an A-line tank and dress. View A is a cropped tank, View B is a short shift dress with a hem facing, and View C is a long dress with a ruffle hem. There is a high and low front neckline and an open back with ties or full back option.

Before we get started, I like to note that the goal is to create a comfortable garment you will enjoy wearing. I don’t think it’s necessary to eliminate every single drag line or pull, so be kind to yourself as you analyze your fit. If you have specific questions about fitting the Noe Tank and Dress, you can always reach out in our Chalk and Notch Facebook Group or email us here.

HOW TO PICK A SIZE

First, take new measurements before starting any project. Our bodies change, and starting with accurate numbers is the first step toward a good fit. You will need the following measurements:

High Bust – Measure around your body, above your bust, just under your arms. Make sure your tape is level around your body. Rest your arms at your sides when measuring.
Full Bust – Measure around your body, at the fullest part of your bust. Make sure your tape is level around your body. Rest your arms at your sides when measuring.
Waist – Measure around your body, at the smallest part of your torso. If you are having trouble finding your waist, lean over to one side, your waist is where your body bends.
Hips – Measure around your body, at the fullest part of your hips/bum.
Side to Hem – Measure from under the arm at the side seam to where you want your tank or dress to finish. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length.

BODY MEASUREMENTS

Use the high bust and full bust measurements to determine your size. If you have a small bust, use the high bust to ensure enough ease through the upper back. If you are between sizes, size up. It is always recommended to sew a test garment to confirm fit.

This pattern includes two bust cup options, and the cup size is determined by calculating the difference between the high and full bust. If the difference between your high bust and full bust is between 0" and 2" (5cm) use the A/B cup If the difference between your high bust and full bust is between 2” (5 cm) and 4" (10 cm) use the C/D cup. If you have more than a 4” (10 cm) difference, you may need a full bust adjustment. More details are in the custom fitting section below.

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

REVIEW THE INTENDED EASE & FINISHED LENGTH

BUST – There is 2" (5 cm) of ease through the bust. But if your high bust and full bust are similar, then you may want to size up to the size that matches your high bust to allow enough ease through the back. Or, if you are between sizes, you may also want to size up because of the limited ease included.

*WAIST – There is 13” (33 cm) of ease through the waist. If your waist falls in a larger size, you may not need to blend sizes in the waist, as you may have plenty of ease.

*HIPS – There is 6” (15cm) of ease through the hips in the dress view. If your hips fall in a large size, you can blend to a larger size in the hips.

*When sewing the C/D cup there will be 2" (5 cm) of additional ease through the waist and hips in the front bodice. If you don't want extra width through the front, you may prefer the ease in the A/B size range. 

FINISHED LENGTH – Checking the length is very important before cutting into your pattern and fabric. The tank is a cropped length and finishes at the natural waist. The short mini dress finishes a few inches above the knee. The long dress is a midi length finishing at mid-calf. To find the finished length of the dress, measure from under the arm at the side seam to the hem. 

MAKING A MUSLIN

I will always advise you to make a muslin or toile (test garment) before cutting into your final fashion fabric. Fabric will have an effect on fit, so try to choose a muslin fabric that is similar in weight and drape to your final fabric. 

CUSTOM ADJUSTMENTS

There are often many ways to make the same adjustments, and a simple adjustment can affect many areas. The following are the most common adjustments we saw during testing.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN

To find the finished length, measure from under the arm to the desired hem length. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length. When adjusting the length for the tank, it's easiest to adjust at the hem. When adjusting the length for the dress, cut at the indicated line.

To adjust the tank length:

• If adding length, add the amount desired to the hem.
• If shortening, trim the hem the desired amount.
• Repeat for the lining.

To adjust the dress length:

• Draw a horizontal line perpendicular to the grainline about 5" (13 cm) above the hem on the front and back main pattern pieces.
• Cut the pattern.
• If adding length, add paper and add the amount desired.
• If shortening, overlap at the cut line the amount desired.
• Re-draw the seams by connecting and blending the seams.
• Repeat for the lining.

ADJUSTING THE STRAP LENGTH

If you need to lengthen or shorten the armhole, adjust at the shoulder.

• To add length, add paper and add the desired amount of length on the front and back.
• To remove length, trim the desired amount from the shoulder on the front and back. 
• Repeat for the lining. 

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT

If you have over 4" (10 cm) difference between your high bust and full bust, you may need a Full Bust Adjustment to the C/D Cup Bodice

• First decide how much more ease you need through your bust, and you will add half that amount to your pattern. If you need 1" (2.5 cm), then you will add 1/2" (1.25 cm) to the pattern.
• Cut from the hem, below the bust point (#1) to the bust point (#2) and to the mid armhole (#3), not cutting all the way through. Lay this on top of a new piece of paper and rotate the side seam out. 
• From the center of the bust dart (#4) to the bust point (#2) without cutting all the way through at the bust. Open the ease at the bust (#4), and make your pattern parallel, adding more length at the hem (#1). When doing this, you will open ease at the points (#1, #2, & #4), creating larger darts, and add more length and width through the center front.
• True the dart and make sure the front side seam length matches the back side seam length.
• Remember to add more width to the front hem facing or front ruffle hem if sewing the dress.

ADJUST THE FRONT NECKLINE

If you have any gapping at the front neckline, you can pinch out the volume and rotate the front strap. 

• First decide how much you would like to pinch out of the neckline. Your fit sample will usually show you where you need it.
• Cut from the neckline (#1) to the armhole (#2), not cutting all the way through. 
• Rotate the strap in towards the center front.
• Tape this new shape down to a new piece of paper.
• Retrace the new neckline.
• You can see the new front bodice shape and the original (in red) in the last image.

BACK COVERAGE ADJUSTMENT

The back is designed with a slight racerback shape, and we hope you can wear it with a bra. In testing, we noticed that bra coverage varied based on bra strap thickness. If you would like to adjust the back shape to include more bra coverage, you can fill in some of the back armhole curve or the back opening. It is as simple as adding more paper and redrawing the shape as needed. 

I hope this will be helpful while fitting the Noe sewing pattern. It’s totally worth the time to make a muslin, make any adjustments, and update your printed pattern. Remember to write down notes so that when you return to the pattern, you know what adjustments you have made. Please let me know if you have any other fit questions, and I can update the post as needed.

Happy Sewing!

XO, Gabriela