Sewing Tip | How to Sew a Welt Pocket
Have you sewn a welt pocket? Maybe you're too intimidated by the process. Luckily, it just takes a bit of patience and following the steps below and you'll be on your way to beautifully finished welt pocket.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
- Cut back leg pieces for the Reya Pattern or other pant/short sewing pattern
- Pins
- A sewing machine
- Chalk or a pencil for marking
- Fusible interfacing
- 1/4" to 1/2" extra of main fabric for cutting the pocket bag
MARK POCKET PLACEMENT
If using the Reya pattern, use pocket markings from pattern to determine placement. If using another pattern, decide on pocket placement.
Mark a rectangle that is the desired width by ½” high. My rectangle is 5 ½” wide by ½” tall.
Draw a line through the center of the rectangle, stopping about ¼” alway from the ends.
PREPARE POCKET BAG
Cut a piece of fabric 2” wider than pocket and desired depth + 2”. My pocket piece is 7 ½” wide by 19” tall.
Mark same rectangle about 4” from top of pocket bag.
Fuse a piece of interfacing over the markings that is the same width as the pocket bag about 3”-3 ½” tall.
Redraw lines on fusible if needed.
MATCH POCKET BAG TO BAG LEG AND SEW RECTANGLE
Place pocket bag on back of leg, right sides together.
Use pins to help match corners of the rectangles and pin the pocket bag rectangle directly over the rectangle on the back leg piece.
Pin through the middle of the rectangle to keep both layers secure.
Sew around the rectangle, pivoting at each corner.
CLIP, PRESS, MAKE WELT
Clip down center line of rectangle, stopping ¼”-⅜” from the end.
Clip diagonally into the corners, as close to the stitching line as possible but not cutting into the stitching.
Fold top of pocket bag down on stitch line and press.
Fold bottom of pocket bag up on stitch line and press.
Turn pocket bag to inside and press.
Lift bottom of pocket bag and press seam allowance toward the opening of the rectangle.
Form welt by folding lower half of pocket bag up to meet the top of the welt rectangle opening.
Pin in place on sides of welt, not catching the leg piece, only pinning the pocket bag to itself.
Flip pant leg to the right side to make sure the welt is fully covering the rectangle opening and adjust fold/pins as needed.
SEWING THE WELT
From right side of pant leg, flip outside of the pants piece toward center along the side of the rectangle seam.
Sew along existing seamline by triangle to secure the welt.
Repeat with other side.
Fold bottom raw edge of pocket bag up to meet top raw edge.
Pin sides of pocket bag and sew side seams, being careful not to catch pant leg.
Finish edges as desired.
From right side of pants, pull top of pant leg down to show upper rectangle seam line.
Sew over existing seam line, securing seam allowance to top of welt pocket to secure it in place.
That's it! Give your newly sewn welt pocket a final press and enjoy!
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