Sewing Tip | Inserting an Invisible Zipper
I'm going to tell you a secret...I actually prefer sewing and inserting invisible zippers over most other types. They're just right for dresses like our Shay sewing pattern, skirts, and even some trousers. Now we're demystifying the process of inserting an invisible zipper with today's sewing tip. Let's get to it!
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
- An invisible zipper, most sewing shops will carry them but, Wawak is a great source if you can't find one locally.
- Pins
- A sewing machine
- An invisible zipper foot for your specific sewing machine
- A regular zipper foot for your sewing machine
- Scraps of fusible interfacing
INSERTING THE INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Begin by applying interfacing to wrong sides of the fabric where the zipper will be installed.
Finish the raw edges of the fabric if desired.
Using a medium heat setting, press the coils away from the zipper tape. Note: Using a medium heat and not holding the iron in place too long is essential so that you don't melt the coils.
Mark the upper seam allowance.
Line up the top of zipper teeth with seam allowance marking and pin the zipper to fabric right sides together (zipper teeth should be facing away from the edge of the fabric).
Using an invisible zipper foot, line up zipper coils under the left groove of the foot. Stitch close to the zipper teeth.
Mark upper seam allowance on the second side of the fabric and mark the top of the zipper teeth on the zipper tape.
Line up the marks and pin the zipper with the right side of the tape on the right side of the fabric. The bottom of the zipper will look sort of twisted.
Stitch second side of the zipper with the coils under the right grooves of the invisible zipper foot.
Pin the bottom of the seam, under the zipper, pulling the unattached end of the zipper out of the way
Change to a regular zipper foot and move needle as close to the zipper as possible to sew to the bottom of the fabric
Press.
Congratulations! You’ve just sewn an invisible zipper.
If you're adding a facing to the top of your neckline or waistband. Follow the next steps to get neat, sharp corners at the top of your zipper.
GET SHARP CORNERS WHEN INSTALLING FACING TO TOP OF INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Fold top of zipper tape down at facing seam allowance and secure.
Pin facing to main fabric, right sides together.
Sew facing in place.
Fold top of zipper tape so the inner edge meets the facing seam.
Fold facing down and pin in place.
Stitch seam on short edge of facing, close to zipper teeth.
Fold seam toward facing and turn right side out.
That’s it! Now you have sharp corners at the top of your zipper and facing.
Thanks for reading. Find more sewing tips and tutorials under our Sewing Tips section here, Check out our Sew Alongs here, and shop our full sewing pattern library here.
