Reya Sew Along | Sew the Side Pockets & Side Seams

In this post, we will be sewing the side pockets and side seams.

SEW THE SIDE SEAMS WITHOUT POCKETS

If omitting the side seam pockets, sew the side seams right sides together at 1/2” (1.25 cm). Finish and press towards the back (not pictured). Then skip to post here.

PREP THE POCKET BAG FACINGS

If sewing the side pockets out of main fabric, skip to the step below labeled: SEW THE POCKET BAGS TO THE FRONT.

Prep the pocket facings by stitching a fold guide at 1/4” (0.6 cm) on the longer side without notches. Press 1/4” (0.6 cm), wrong sides together.

SEW THE FACINGS TO THE POCKET BAG LINING

Pin the wrong side of the pocket facing to the right side of the pocket bag lining. Edgestitch the pocket facings in place, around all sides.

SEW THE POCKET BAGS TO THE FRONT

As a note, the tutorial will show the pocket bags sewn with lining and facings attached. Your pockets might be sewn with only the main fabric.

The inside of your pocket bags is the right side. With the right sides together, pin one side of the pocket bag to the front leg, matching the notches. The top of the pocket bag will be set lower than the waist. Sew from the top of the pocket to the end of the pocket at 3/8” (1 cm).

FINISH THE POCKET SEAM

Clip the side seam right after the pocket ends. Finish the seams from the waist to the cut notch.

UNDERSTITCH THE FRONT POCKET BAG

Open the side seam and press the seam allowance towards the pocket bag. Understitch the pocket bag, stitching 1/16” (0.15 cm) away from the seam. Repeat and attach the other pocket to the front pants/shorts.

SEW THE POCKET BAG TO THE BACK & FINISH

Attach the pocket to the back the same way. With the right sides together, pin the pocket bag to the back at 3/8” (1 cm). Sew from the top of the pocket to the end of the pocket, matching the notches.

Clip the side seam right after the pocket ends. Finish the seams from the waist to the cut notch.

UNDERSTITCH THE BACK POCKET BAG

Open the side seam and press the seam allowance towards the pocket bag. Understitch the pocket bag, stitching 1/16” (0.15 cm) away from the seam. Repeat and attach the other pocket to the back pants or shorts.

SEW THE SIDE SEAMS

With the right sides together, pin the front and back pieces together, folding the pocket bag in half. Make sure your seams are aligned. I like to use a pin and poke through to make sure the side seams are aligned.

Sew the side seams at 1/2” (1.25 cm). Start at the waist and stop at the first notch, backstitching at the end. It might be hard to see where your notch is after finishing the seam. For reference, the first notch will be 5 1/4” (13.5 cm) from the high-rise cut edge or 3 1/2” (9 cm) from the mid-rise cut edge.

Then sew the lower side seam. Start at the pocket bag fold, and sew towards the side seam. Pivot at the lower notch and continue to the hem.

Check the right side to make sure you cannot see the pocket seam, and repeat for the other side.

FINISH THE SIDE SEAMS

If finishing with an overlock, clip the inside corner where the pocket meets the side seam to allow your overlock machine to sew in a straight line.

Finish the side seams. Start at the pocket bag fold, and sew towards the side seam. Pivot at the lower notch and continue to the hem.

Press the pockets towards the front. Repeat for the other side.

SEW POCKET BAR TACKS

To secure your side seam pockets, turn your pants or shorts with the right side out and lay them flat. With your seam allowance pressed to the front, sew a 1/4” (0.6 cm) bar tack just above and below the pocket opening. Go through all layers to secure in place. Repeat on the other side.

Reya Sew Along Posts: Getting Started | Prep Pattern & Sew the Drawstring | Sew the Pin Tuck | Sew the Back Pockets | Sew the Side Pockets & Side Seams | Sew the Inseams & Rise | Sew the Waistband & Hem