Noe Sew Along | Staystitching, Darts, Center Seams, and Ties

Here we'll begin the sewing portion of our Noe Sew Along with staystitching, sewing darts, center seams, and ties.

1. SEAM ALLOWANCE & STAYSTITCHING 

The seam allowance included is 3/8" (1 cm) for joined seams.

Clip or mark the notches indicated by "T" marks and "triangles" just under 1/4" (0.6 cm). 

Before handling your cut pieces too much, sew a stitch line 1/4" (0.6 cm) away from the fabric edge on the front and back neckline for the main and lining pieces. This will prevent the seams from stretching out. The tutorial will illustrate the high neck front and the half bodice lining, but the instructions are the same for the low front or full lining.

2. SEW THE DARTS ON THE FRONT BODICE

Sew the bust darts on the front bodice for the main and lining pieces.

Your main front bodice can be cut as 2 pieces or cut on the fold. The lining is cut on the fold. The tutorial will illustrate the main bodice as 2 pieces. If you cut your main bodice on the fold, skip to step 4. 

3. SEW THE CENTER FRONT SEAM

With the right sides together, pin and sew the front bodice pieces together. Finish the seam and press to one side.

Optional: topstitch the seam at 1/4" (0.6 cm) from the seam edge. The front lining should be cut on the fold.

4. SEW THE CENTER BACK SEAM

With the right sides together, pin and sew the back bodice pieces together. If sewing the open back view, sew from below the open back to the hem. If sewing the full back, sew from the back neck to the hem. 

Finish the seam and press to one side. Repeat for the back lining pieces. 

Optional: topstitch the seam at 1/4" (0.6 cm) from the seam edge. If sewing the full back, skip to step 6.

5. SEW CENTER BACK TIES | OPEN BACK VIEW ONLY

If sewing the open back, sew the back ties. Fold one short end of the ties to the wrong side, 3/8” (1 cm). 

Then fold the ties in half lengthwise and press to create a fold line. 

Open and press the cut edges to meet the center fold line. Fold again to create a 3/8” (1 cm) wide drawstring, and edgestitch the three open ends. Set aside.

 Alternatively, you can sew the ties right sides together at 3/8” ( 1 cm) and turn the straps. A turning tool or safety pin can be helpful. Set the ties aside.

Noe Sew Along Posts: Getting Started | Staystitching, Darts, Center Seams, and Ties | Sewing the Neckline and Armholes | Attach Ties and Sew Center Back Opening (Open Back View Only) | Shoulder Seams, Straps, and Side Seams | Sewing Hem and Long Dress Ruffle