Hayes Sew Along | Assemble Skirt
It's time to put the skirt of the Hayes pattern together. Let's get started.
OPEN BACK DRESS | SEW & UNDERSTITCH THE CENTER BACK CASING
If sewing the open back, with the right sides together, sew the center back casing to the center back skirt.
Trim the seam allowance to half to reduce bulk. Press the seam up towards the casing. Understitch by stitching a line 1/16" (0.15 cm) away from the seam on the casing. Make sure to catch the seam allowance towards the casing when stitching.
OPEN BACK DRESS | EDGESTITCH THE CENTER BACK CASING
Press the casing cut edge towards the center to meet at the stitch line.
Fold the casing one more time so it is lying on the inside of the center back panel. Pin in place. Edgestitch from the wrong side, catching the very edge.
Thread the 1/2" (1.25 cm) elastic through the opening and secure at both ends.
SKIRT & DRESS | SEW THE SKIRT PANELS
With the right sides together, sew the center front skirt to the side front skirt panels, matching the notches. Repeat for the center back and side back panels.
Finish the seams and press towards the side seams. If sewing the skirt or the full back dress, your front and back panels will look the same. If sewing the open back dress, the center back panel will have an elastic casing and the cut edge of the side back panels will finish 3/8" (1 cm) above the center back elastic.
SKIRT & DRESS | SEW THE POCKET BAGS TO THE SIDE SEAMS
With the right sides together, pin the pocket bags to the side seams, matching the notches. Sew from the top of the pocket to the end of the pocket at 1/4" (0.6 cm). Clip the side seam right after the pocket ends.
Finish the seams from the waist to the cut notch. Open the side seam and press the seam allowance towards the pocket bag. Understitch the pocket bag, stitching 1/16" (0.15 cm) away from the seam. Repeat and attach the other pockets.
SKIRT & DRESS | SEW THE SIDE SEAMS
With the right sides together, pin the front and back pieces together.
Sew the side seams. Start at the waist and stop at the first notch, backstitching at the end. The first notch will be 3 1/4" (9 cm) from the cut edge. Then start at the pocket bag, and sew towards the side seam. Pivot at the lower notch and continue to the hem. Check the right side to make sure you cannot see the pocket seam, and repeat for the other side.
SKIRT & DRESS | FINISH THE SIDE SEAMS
If finishing with an overlock, clip the inside corner where the pocket meets the side seam to allow your overlock machine to sew in a straight line. Finish the side seams (If you do not have an overlock machine, you can zig zag to finish these seams). Start at the pocket bag and sew towards the side seam. Pivot at the lower notch and continue to the hem.
Press the pockets towards the front. Repeat for the other side.
SKIRT & DRESS | SECURE THE SIDE SEAM POCKETS
To secure your pockets, turn your skirt right side out and lay flat. With your pockets pressed to the front, pin the top edge to the waistline. Sew at 1/4" (0.6 cm) to hold them in place.
Sew a 1/4" (0.6 cm) bar tack just above and below the pocket opening. Go through all layers. Repeat on the other side.
SKIRT & DRESS | SEW THE HEM FACING SIDE SEAMS
With the right sides together, sew the front and back hem facings at the side seams. Press the seams open.
SKIRT & DRESS | SEW A HEM GUIDE
Prep the hem facing by stitching a fold guide just under 3/8" (1 cm) at the top edge without the notches. Press the top hem 3/8" (1 cm), wrong sides together.
SKIRT & DRESS | SEW THE HEM FACING TO THE SKIRT & UNDERSTITCH
With the right sides together, sew the hem facings to the skirt hem at 3/8" (1 cm).
Press the seam towards the facing. Understitch by stitching a line 1/16" (0.15 cm) away from the seam on the facing. Make sure to catch the seam allowance towards the facing when stitching.
SKIRT & DRESS | EDGESTITCH THE HEM FACING
Press the hem facing towards the inside of the skirt and pin the folded facing edge in place. Sew from the wrong side, edgestitching at 1/16" (0.15 cm) from the folded edge. Make sure your bobbin thread matches the right side of your garment and press.
Now that the skirt is assembled, we'll add the finishing touches in the next post.
Hayes Sew Along Posts: Getting Started | Staystitching, Interfacing, & Ties | Assemble Bodice & Sew Neckline | Attach Sleeves and Sew Sides | Finishing the Bodice | Assemble Skirt | Finish Dress and Skirt Waistband
