Rivi Sew Along | Sew the Side Seam Slits
In this post, we will be sewing the side seams with side slits, also with French seams. If you do not include side slits, skip this first step and sew the side seams with French seams. If you prefer a video tutorial, the steps for sewing the side slits (steps 27-30) are available on your YouTube channel here.
Decide how high you want to start your side slit, and start the slit 1 1/4” (3 cm) above where you want it to finish. We suggest starting the slit 5” (12.5 cm) from the hem on the blouse and 7” (18 cm) from the hem on the dress. Make a mark at your preferred slit height at 1/4” (0.6 cm) in from the side seam, and a mark 5/8” (1.5 cm) down and 5/8” (1.5 cm) in from the side seam.
Draw a sew line to connect these marks.
With the wrong sides together, pin and sew the side seams with a 1/4” (0.6 cm) seam allowance from the armhole to the first slit mark. Note: When sewing the dress with side seam pockets, the instructions are the same for the first pass of the side seams.
Pivot and continue a diagonal sew line to the next mark.
Cut a slit to the end of the sew line.
Press the side seam open and trim the seam allowance to 1/8” (0.3 cm). Press the side slit open at 5/8” (1.5 cm). This will give you a guide for where to sew your second pass or you could draw a chalk line at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Note: When sewing the dress side seam with pockets, pin the pocket opening out of the way.
Pin the side seams right sides together and sew a second pass at 3/8” (1 cm), fully enclosing the first pass and stopping right past the slit point at the slit press line.
When you get to the end, backstitch to secure.
Press the side seam allowance towards the back. Fold down the cut point behind the slit. Then turn the side slit edges in, wrong sides together at 1/4” (0.6 cm) and again at 3/8” (1 cm).
Edgestitch the side seam slit in place.
The side seam is complete. It's time to sew the sleeves in this post here.
Rivi Sew Along Posts: Getting Started | Staystitching & Fusing | Assemble the Bodice & Placket | Sew the Collar & Collar Stand | Sew the Pockets | Sew the Side Seam Slits | Sew the Sleeves | Hem & Sew Buttons
