Pattern Fitting & Custom Adjustments / All / Aria

If you are looking for help fitting your Aria Top pattern, you’ve found the right post! We have put together this post covering the most common fitting adjustments for the Aria. Find fitting posts for each of our patterns in the fitting and custom adjustments library here.

Please check out our Aria Top Tester Inspiration post here if you’re interested in seeing it on a variety of body types. During testing, we work through the fit for each tester, which helps inform what fitting and custom adjustments we talk about in our fitting posts. Most of these adjustments are included in the pattern tutorials, and if more fit questions come up, we will continue to add them to the blog post.

The Aria is a bubble-shaped woven top with elbow-length sleeves and elastic hem casings. View A includes a high back with a bias or facing neckline option. View B includes a low back with ties and a square back facing. Both views have a narrow or cropped ruffle hem option for the sleeves and bodice hem.

Before we get started, I always like to add a note that the goal should be to create a comfortable garment that you will enjoy wearing. I don’t think it’s important to get rid of every single drag line and pull, so be kind to yourself as you are analyzing your fit. If you have specific questions about fitting the Aria Top pattern, you can always reach out in our Chalk and Notch Facebook Group or email us here.

HOW TO PICK A SIZE

First, make sure you take new measurements before starting any project because our bodies change, and starting with accurate numbers is the first step to getting a good fit. You will need the following measurements:
High Bust – Around your body, just under the arms. Keep your arms relaxed by your side.
Full Bust – The fullest part of your bust.
Hips – Measure the widest point. However, due to the amount of ease, this measurement is less important when picking a size since the bodice finishes above the hips.

BODY MEASUREMENTS

Use the high bust and full bust measurements to determine your size. If you fall between sizes, you can size down due to the ease included. It is always recommended to sew a test garment to confirm fit.

This pattern includes two bust cup options (A/B and C/D), and the cup size is determined by calculating the difference between the high and full bust.

If the difference between your high bust and full bust is between 0″ and 2″ (5 cm), use the A/B cup. If the difference is between 2″ (5 cm) and 4″ (10 cm), use the C/D cup. If you have more than a 4″ (10 cm) difference, you may need a full bust adjustment.

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

The bust ease is hard to calculate as the dropped sleeve includes the bust. We are including the finished measurement at the ribs for reference. Overall this style is easy to fit. The waist finishes at the natural waistline and the sleeve length finishes just above the elbow. Both the waist and sleeves can be adjusted by the elastic hem finish. There is 14″ (35.5 cm) of ease through the waist before adding elastic.

To find the finished length of the sleeve, measure from the high neck point to the elbow. The sleeve is meant to blouse at the elbow. To find the finished length of the bodice, measure from the center back neck to the center back hem. The finished length of the top ends at the waist and is meant to blouse. The ruffle hem option will be 1″ shorter. The low back view should cover your bra strap. Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length.

MAKING A MUSLIN

I will always advise you to make a muslin or toile (test garment) before cutting into your final fashion fabric. Since this pattern has lots of ease and is easy to fit, this may not be as necessary, but it is still recommended.

CUSTOM ADJUSTMENTS

Often there are many ways to make the same adjustments. The following are the most common adjustments we have seen during testing.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN THE BODICE

If you decide you would like to add or remove length through the torso, adjust at the hem of the front and back bodice pieces. There is a 3/4″ (2 cm) seam allowance at the bodice hem that encloses the elastic casing for the narrow hem and a 1 3/4″ (4.5 cm) seam allowance at the bodice hem that encloses the elastic casing for the ruffle hem.

  • If adding length, add paper and add the amount desired by extending the side seams and center front or center back (solid line).
  • If shortening, trim the hem (dashed line).

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN THE SLEEVE

If you decide you would like to add or remove length in the sleeve, adjust at the sleeve hem. There is a 3/4″ (2 cm) seam allowance at the sleeve hem that encloses the elastic casing for the narrow hem. There is a 1 3/4″ (4.5 cm) seam allowance at the sleeve hem that encloses the elastic casing for the ruffle hem.

  • If adding length, add paper and add the amount desired by extending the side seams and shoulder seam (solid line).
  • If shortening, trim the hem (dashed line).

ADJUSTING THE NECKLINE WIDTH

This example shows how to make the neckline smaller by blending two sizes.

  • Print both sizes.
  • Draw a new shoulder seam, blending between the sizes for the front and back bodice.
  • Use the smaller neckline facing or bias neckline pattern piece.

ADJUSTING THE BACK NECKLINE DEPTH

If you would like to raise or lower the back neckline:

  • Decide how much you would like to adjust.
  • Add paper to the back neckline to draw a higher back (solid line) or lower the back (dashed line).
  • Adjust the back neck facing to be the same shape. Keep the facing 1.75″ (4.5 cm) all the way around.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT

If you have over 4″ (10 cm) between your high bust and full bust, you may need a full bust adjustment to the C/D cup bodice. You have all of the width ease since the dropped armhole shape is at the bust line. You may need some additional length at the center front.

I hope this post helps explain how and when to make custom adjustments while fitting your Aria. Remember to write down some notes for yourself so that when you come back to the pattern, you know what adjustments you have made. If you have any other fit questions, please let me know, and I can update the post as needed.

Happy Sewing!

XO, Gabriela