SEAM ALLOWANCE, MARKINGS & NECKLINE STAYSTITCHING
Unless noted, the seam allowance included is 3/8″ (1 cm) for joined seams.
Clip or mark the notches. Notches are indicated on the pattern by “T” marks.
Before handling your cut pieces too much, sew a stitch line 1/4″ (0.6 cm) away from the fabric edge on the front upper and back yoke pieces at the neckline. This will prevent your neckline from stretching out before attaching the collar.
If lining your jacket, you can also staystitch your lining pieces.
ADD FUSIBLE INTERFACING
Attach the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the under collar, side pocket facings, the top of the patch pockets and half of the center front placket (on the long side without a middle notch. The center front placket fusible will be set inside the seam allowance.
The fusible will help stabilize the collar, pockets and the center front where you will add buttons or snaps. Tricot fusible interfacing is recommended, but you can use any lightweight fusible interfacing.
PREP THE COLLAR
With the right sides together, sew the under collar (with fusible) at the center back seam, matching the double notches. Press the seam allowance open.
Sew a fold guide on the bottom edge of the upper collar (without fusible) just under 3/8″ (1 cm).
Press the bottom edge in 3/8″ (1 cm), wrong sides together.
SEW THE COLLAR
With the right sides together, pin and sew the upper collar to the under collar. Reduce stitch length to get a sharp corner.
Clip the corners and trim the seam allowance to half at the long edge.
Turn right side out, making your corners square. A point-turner can be helpful. Press the collar and set aside.
Den Sew Along Posts | Getting Started | Staystitching, Interfacing, and Collar | Sew and Attach Pockets | Sew Yoke, Shoulders and Sleeves | Prepare and Sew Optional Lining | Sew Front Placket and Hem | Attach Collar and Topstitch Placket | Adding Snaps or Buttons
