THE UPDATED ORCHID IS HERE!
I am thrilled to bring you the second pattern to get an update with three new sizes and a new bust cup! The Orchid Midi was originally designed as a collaboration with Celina of Ensemble Patterns to pair with the Parasol Jumpsuit. You can read about the collaboration and the original release here. Not to worry, Celina is working on the update for the Parasol Jumpsuit to continue to pair with the Orchid for all sizes. The Orchid Midi is also one of the featured June patterns for #sewmystyle19 so I wanted to make sure the update was released in time for June sewing. If you are interested in the #sewmystyle challenge, you can read more about it here or join the FB group here.
I invited a few sewing bloggers to sew up the updated Orchid Midi to help me showcase this updated version, and I am so excited about their versions! They didn’t have to coordinate, and as far as I know, they didn’t plan it, but I love how their beautiful fabrics go together. These ladies are all such great inspirations; if you aren’t following them you must! I linked to their Instagram accounts below. Keep reading for more photos and information about their fabrics.
Changes to the Orchid Pattern
You might be wondering exactly what has been updated, so I have listed the changes below. However, if you already own the Orchid and are happy with the fit, there is no need to make any changes to your pattern.
- There are three more sizes: 20/22/24. The new Chalk and Notch size range is 0-24. The Fringe and the Orchid now include this update, and I will be working through previously released patterns to include this update. This will be the size range for all future patterns.
- This pattern includes two bust cup options: A/B & C/D. The new bust cup addition is basically a built-in Full Bust Adjustment. For reference, the cup size is determined by calculating the difference between the high and full bust. If the difference between your high bust and full bust is between 0” and 2” (5 cm), use the A/B cup. If the difference is between 2” (5 cm) and 4” (10 cm), use the C/D cup. You can see the updated size chart and garment measurement chart below.
In celebration of the updated release, the Orchid Midi pattern will be on SALE through Wednesday, May 22nd. To receive 20% off, please use the coupon code: orchid20
*I will not be able to make any payment adjustments after purchase, so please make sure to enter the coupon code before checking out.
Raven used a red Rayon Challis from Minerva Crafts, which is perfect for View A since the fabric drape allows the sleeves to fall so nicely. She looks so stunning in this color and I’m obsessed with her shoes too!
THE UPDATE IS INCLUDED IF YOU ALREADY OWN THE ORCHID
If you already own the Orchid, the updated files will appear in your account, so no need to repurchase it. To access your files, log in to your account by clicking on the icon that looks like a “person” in the upper right-hand corner of the Chalk and Notch website.
After you enter your username and password, you will see a button labeled “downloads” on the left-hand side. Your purchased patterns should all be there. Please download the updated Orchid files for your records. If you are missing anything, please feel free to email (firstname.lastname@example.org) for assistance. If you purchase the Orchid from a third party, I will be sending shops the updated files shortly, so you should be able to get the files from your accounts there.
The Orchid Midi Dress is a wrap bodice with a midi length skirt. View A has ruffle sleeves. View B has long sleeves with a gathered cap and wrist. Both views include two cup sizes. As mentioned above, the Orchid Midi is designed to work with the Parasol Jumpsuit by Ensemble Patterns for additional combinations. There is a free tutorial that you can download for full instructions on how to pair the two patterns.
The pattern is listed as INTERMEDIATE sewing level with the most challenging sewing steps being: sewing bias to the neckline, gathering the yokes/sleeves, enclosing the back yoke, and sewing a mitered hem. These steps are not difficult, but they may be a new skill to learn. I have included sewing instructions to give you a clean finish when possible for a professional-looking result. There are detailed, step-by-step illustrated instructions to help you along the way, and if you’d like more help, the Chalk and Notch Patterns Facebook Group is a great place to get support. Many of the testers are members there, so you have great resources if you ever need them.
HOW TO PICK A SIZE
First determine what cup size to make. The cup size is determined by calculating the difference between the high and full bust. If the difference between your high bust and full bust is between 0” and 2” (5 cm), use the A/B cup. If the difference is between 2” (5 cm) and 4” (10 cm), use the C/D cup.
It is very common to fall across a few different sizes. After you determine what cup to make, pick a size that works for your High Bust and Full Bust. The waist is adjustable with a combo of elastic and a drawstring. There is 7″ (18 cm) of ease in the hips, so that measurement is less important for fitting. The bicep is a reference if sewing View B with a long sleeve. If you need to blend sizes or make custom adjustments, there is more on that below.
Use the garment measurement chart to review the intended amount of ease included in the pattern. This style is designed to have 5” (12.5 cm) of ease through the bust and 7” (18 cm) of ease through the hips. The waist is adjustable with waist ties.
CUSTOM FITTING ADJUSTMENTS
There are custom fitting adjustments included in the pattern, but I have also put together a post with more details here. After testing the Orchid pattern (during two separate tests), I have addressed a variety of custom fitting questions. I hope you find all of the information you need to fit your Orchid! If you need additional help or have questions, please feel free to email me or join the Chalk and Notch Patterns Facebook Group – I’m always happy to hear from you!
Mary used an organic cotton Floral fabric designed by A Beautiful Mess (aka: Elsie Larson and Emma Chapman) from Cottoneer Fabrics. I love this awesome vintage-inspired print for her Orchid Midi and now I seriously need to source some 70’s inspired fabric for myself!
FABRIC & TRIMS
This style is designed for a light to medium weight woven fabric with a nice drape. So many fabrics work with the Orchid pattern; however, if you are sewing View A with the ruffle sleeves, you will want to have a really great drape to allow the sleeves to fall correctly! Recommended main fabrics: rayon challis, rayon crepe, rayon voile, cotton lawn, cotton voile, linen, double gauze.
You will need 1/2 yard of lining for the pocket bags, I recommend Rayon Bemberg since it presses great and has a nice feel. You can use your main fabric if you do not have lining fabric available.
- 1 yard of Tricot fusible interfacing or light weight fusible interfacing
- 1 yard of 1/2” (1.2 cm) elastic
- 3/4 yard 3/8” (1 cm) elastic: VIEW B ONLY
- Optional: Safety Pin, Turning Tool
- Optional: Hidden Snap
We had a wonderful team of over 50 women who helped make this pattern update a reality. I never require styled photos as part of the test, but many sent over photos to share. I know it can be helpful to see a pattern on a variety of people using different fabrics, so here are just a few of the testers who made this update possible. I’ll be posting a round-up of all of the tester photos soon.
Thanks for checking out the updated Orchid pattern!