BASTE STITCH THE BELT LOOPS
Pin the belt loops right sides together at the waistline. Line up the raw edge of the two loops with the center front pleats.
One belt loop will be at the center back and the last two will be 1″ (2.5 cm) from the side seam towards the center back. Stitch the belt loops in place at 1/4″ (0.6 cm).
SEW THE WEARER’S RIGHT SIDE OF THE WAISTBAND & FACING
With right sides together, sew the wearer’s right side of the waistband and the waistband facing at 3/4″ (2 cm). For reference, the waistband facings have 1/8″ (0.3 cm) trimmed from the top edge and notches on the bottom edge.
Press the seams open.
PRESS THE WAISTBAND BOTTOM EDGE
Press the bottom edge of the waistband under 3/8″ ( 1 cm), wrong sides together.
SEW THE WAISTBAND TO THE WAISTBAND FACING
With the right sides together, pin the top edge of the waistband to the waistband facing, sew and clip the curved seam.
Press the seam open.
ATTACH THE WAISTBAND FACING TO THE WAISTLINE
Pin the right side of the bottom waistband facing to the wrong side of the to shorts/trousers at the waistline, matching the notches and side seams.
Sew the seam and turn the shorts/ trousers inside out to make sure that the waistband meets on either side of the zipper and the same point. Adjust if needed and press the seam up.
Trim the top of the zipper tape.
SEW THE SHORT ENDS OF THE WAISTBAND
Flip the waistband so the right side of the waistband and the waistband facing are touching with the seam allowance folded up. Pin the short ends of the waistband to line up the notches. The front will line up with the zipper edge and the back will line up with the zipper shield. If you omit the zipper shield there will be a 3/4″ (2 cm) extension. Sew at 3/4″ ( 2 cm).
Trim the seam allowance and corner, then turn right side out and press.
TOPSTITCH THE WAISTBAND
Pin the waistband in place with the seam allowance turned under at the pressed line.
Topstitch the waistband at 1/8″ (0.3 cm). Start at the back extension, go around the bottom edge around to the front, then up the front short end. Continue back around the front top edge and back top edge, then back down the back extension. Make sure not to pull or twist while topstitching. Press.
BAR TACK BELT LOOPS
Pin the top of the belt loops with the edge folded under.
Topstitch the belt loops in place.