Den Sew Along | Prepare and Sew Jacket Lining

The following steps are for the jacket lining only. If you aren’t lining your Den Jacket, skip to the next post: Sew Front Placket and Hem

PREP THE BACK NECK FACING

If you’re adding a lining, now is a good time to add a garment label and/or a center back hanging loop on the center back facing.

Fold the center back loop in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Then fold the edges under by 3/8″ (1 cm). Fold in half one more time and stitch the long side closed with visible edgestitching.

Edgestitch a garment label in place. Sew the center back loop to the neckline and adjust the length based on your label size.

Sew a fold guide on the bottom of the back neck facing, just under 3/8″ (1 cm). Press the edge in 3/8″ (1 cm), wrong sides together.

ATTACH THE BACK NECK FACING

With the back lining right side up, place the back neck facing on top, matching the center back notch. Pin in place while folding under the bottom hem of the back facing.

Sew the neckline and shoulder seams with a 1/4″ (0.6 cm) seam. The hem can be edgestitched in place.

SEW THE LINING SHOULDER SEAMS

With the right sides together, sew the front and back lining together at the shoulder seams.

Finish and press the seams to the back.

ATTACH THE SLEEVE CUFF FACING

With the right sides together, pin and sew the sleeve cuff facing to the sleeve lining.

Finish the seam and press the seams up.

PREP THE SLEEVE LINING CAP

To prep the sleeve lining cap, change your stitch length to the longest possible length. Sew two parallel baste stitch lines at the cap between the notches. Make sure not to backstitch at the beginning or end of your stitch lines and leave long ends to your threads.

The first line is 1/4″ (0.6 cm) away from the fabric edge.
The second line is 1/2″ (1.25 cm) away from the fabric edge.

Pull the bobbin threads to slightly gather the sleeve cap. This will help you set the sleeves.

ATTACH THE SLEEVE LINING

With the right sides together, pin the sleeve lining to the armhole, matching the notches.

Sew the sleeve lining to the bodice lining. Finish the seam, remove any visible basting stitches and press the seam towards the sleeve.

SEW THE LINING SIDE SEAMS

With the right sides together, sew the side seams. Start from the sleeve hem and sew towards the bodice hem.

Finish the seam and press to the back.

ATTACH THE LINING TO THE MAIN FABRIC

Place the lining inside the main jacket, wrong sides together. Match the center front and the neckline.

Pin in place and sew with a 1/4″ (0.6 cm) seam. The lining hem will be shorter than the main hem.

SEW THE SLEEVES TOGETHER AT THE HEM

Add a safety pin on the sleeves through the main and lining at the hem seam.

Then turn the jacket wrong side out by pulling from the hem in between the main and lining.

Unpin the safety pin and pin the main and lining sleeves, right sides together.

Sew the hem at 3/8″ (1 cm). Make sure the sleeves are not twisted by matching the upper and underarm seams.

Turn right side out and press. Topstitch the seam at 1/4″ (0.6 cm) from the seam edge. The sleeves are meant to be folded up and the facing will act as a cuff.