If you are looking for help fitting your Max, you’ve found the right post! We have put together this post covering the most common fitting adjustments for the Max Tee. Find fitting posts for each of our patterns in the fitting and custom adjustments library here.
Please check out our Max Tester Inspiration post here if you’re interested in seeing it on a variety of body types. During testing, we work through the fit for each tester, which helps inform what fitting and custom adjustments we talk about in our fitting posts. Most of these adjustments are included in the pattern tutorials, and if more fit questions come up, we will continue to add them to the blog post.
The Max Tee is a boxy knit top with a muscle tee shoulder shape and a dropped armhole. The dropped armhole shouldn’t feel uncomfortably low but might be lower than you are used to. Your fabric will also affect how low your armhole will end up.
Before we get started, I always like to add a note that the goal should be to create a comfortable garment that you will enjoy wearing. I don’t think it’s important to get rid of every single drag line and pull, so be kind to yourself as you are analyzing your fit. If you have specific questions about fitting the Max Tee, you can always reach out in our Chalk and Notch Facebook Group or email us here.
First things first, make sure you have a copy of the Max Tee pattern.
HOW TO PICK A SIZE
First, make sure you take new measurements before starting any project because our bodies change, and starting with accurate numbers is the first step to getting a good fit.
The cup size is determined by calculating the difference between the high bust and full bust. If the difference between the high bust and full bust is between 0” and 2” (5 cm), use the A/B cup. If the difference is between 2” (5 cm) and 4” (10 cm), use the C/D cup. If you have more than a 4” (10 cm) difference, you may need a Full Bust Adjustment. More details on the Full Bust Adjustment are below.
It is very common to fall across a few different sizes. After you determine what cup size to make, pick a size that works for your high bust and full bust. If you fall between sizes, size down. Make a note of your waist and hip measurements if there’s a significant difference in size.
Finished Garment Measurements
This style is designed to have 5” (12.5 cm) of ease through the bust. There is 12” (30.5 cm) of ease through the waist.
Review the finished garment measurements to determine if you would like to adjust the length. For reference, the center back to hem measurement is taken from your back neck to the finished hem of the top. It might be helpful to have someone help you take this measurement.
The finished length of the crop top ends right below the waist. The finished length of the top ends at the hip and is lower in the back. We all carry our length in different places, so review the finished garment measurements or hold up the pattern pieces to determine if you would like to adjust the length.
MAKING A MUSLIN
I will always advise you to make a muslin or toile (test garment) before cutting into your final fashion fabric. Fabric will affect fit, and you won’t get a feel for the true fit unless you sew it in a comparable knit fabric.
ADJUSTING THE BODICE LENGTH
To find the finished length, measure from the center back hem. The finished length of the crop top ends right below the waist. The finished length of the top ends at the hip and is lower in the back. If you are including hem facing, you will want to adjust the length at the cut lines.
- Cut the pattern horizontally at the indicated line (shown in red)
- If adding length, add paper and add the desired length.
- If shortening, overlap at the cut line the amount desired.
- Re-draw the side seams.
For the cropped view, it’s easiest to adjust at the hem.
To adjust the bodice length at the hem:
- If adding length, add paper and add the amount desired by extending the side seams and center front or center back (shown in solid red)
- If shortening, trim the hem (shown in dashed red).
FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT
If you have over 4″ (10 cm) between your high bust and full bust, you may need a Full Bust Adjustment. Use the C/D Cup Bodice.
- First decide how much more ease you need through your bust. Add half that amount to your pattern. If you need 1″ (2.5 cm), then you will add 1/2″ (1.25 cm) to the pattern.
- Cut from the waistline (#1) to the bust point (#2) then to the armhole (#3), not cutting all the way through at the armhole. Also cut from the center of the side seam (#4) to the bust point (#2) without cutting all the way through at the bust point. Lay this on top of a new piece of paper.
- Open the ease at the bust (#2) parallel to the hem (#1), shown in pink. This will open ease at the points #1 and #4, creating a longer side seam and added length through the center front. Tape this new shape down on the paper.
- Trace your new bodice piece, shown in red, smoothing the side seam and hem. The center front hem will be longer and the side seam will have a slight curve.
- Place your back bodice pattern piece on top of the front bodice to measure the side seam length. Trim the excess length from the front bodice hem and smooth out the hem curve. You have completed the FBA. Make adjustments to your front hem facing so that it matches the new hem curve.
LOWER THE NECKLINE
If you would like to lower the neckline, you can simply curve out a lower neckline shape. Just remember to adjust your neck facings or your neckband. For reference, the neckband length is 85% (for rib) or 90% (for main fabric) of the length of your neckline, plus seam allowances. If sewing the neck facing, trace the new neckline shape on the facing and make sure the height is consistent all the way around.
FORWARD SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT
If you need to adjust the placement of the shoulder seam, it’s an easy adjustment. In this example, I’m moving the shoulder seam forward by 1/2″ (1.25 cm). The new seam is in red. Remove 1/2″ (1.25 cm) from the Front Bodice and add 1/2″ (1.25 cm) to the Back Bodice. Make sure to make the same adjustment to the facing pieces. If you need to move the seam back, you will do the opposite: add to the front pieces and remove length from the back.
I hope this post helps explain how and when to do custom adjustments while fitting the Max Tee pattern. It’s totally worth the time to make a muslin, make any adjustments, and update your printed pattern. Remember to write down some notes for yourself so that when you come back to the pattern, you know what adjustments you have made. If you have any other fit questions, please let me know and I can update the post as needed.