Shay Dress Sew Along | Zipper and Finishing View A

Let’s finish up View A!

SEW TIER 1 TO THE BODICE

With the right sides together, sew the tier 1 skirt to the right side of the bodice main. Make sure not to catch the bodice lining.

Remove any visible basting stitches. Finish the seam and press towards the bodice.

The first tier is shown sewn to the bodice of Shay Dress View A.

CHECK THE SEAMS AND TRIM THE ZIPPER IF NEEDED

Check to make sure your center back seams are even and the waistline matches up. The invisible zipper should finish at least 1″ (2.5 cm) before the end of tier 1. If necessary, sew a new zipper stop and trim the bottom of the zipper.

PREP THE ZIPPER

Using a low heat setting, press the coils open to help you sew close to the zipper teeth.

To keep the placement consistent, transfer a few marks onto your zipper. The plastic zipper stop should be set 1/8″ (0.3 cm) from the bodice’s finished edge. Including the seam allowance, the zipper stop placement should be 1/2″ (1.25 cm) from the cut edge. Mark the top edge of the bodice, the waist seam, and the end of the zipper on the back of the invisible zipper tape.

The invisible zipper is lined up agains the back bodice View A.

SEW THE ZIPPER TO THE MAIN BODICE

Switch to an invisible zipper foot. With the bodice right side up, place the zipper right side down. Open the zipper and pin the zipper in place. Line up the top cut edge, waist seam and the end of the zipper.

The zipper is shown pinned to one side of the back bodice view a.

Put the zipper teeth in the groove of the invisible zipper foot. Sew one side of the zipper, sewing as far as you can go.

An invisible zipper foot sews on a zipper.

Repeat for the other side.

The invisible zipper is shown pinned to one side of the Shay view a bodice.

Once you are happy with the zipper placement, you can sew a second pass, pulling open the coil and sewing even closer.

The invisible zipper is shown sewn to the back of View A.

SEW THE LINING TO THE CENTER BACK

Switch to a regular zipper foot. Flip the bodice wrong side out. Flip the lining down so the right side of the center back lining is facing the center back seam allowance. Trim the center back lining 1/4″ (0.6 cm). This will help the center back zipper lie to the inside of the invisible zipper. Pin the cut edge of the lining to the cut edge of the main bodice.

Sew close to the previous stitch line to clean finish the bodice lining.

Turn the bodice right side out to check the zipper.

CLOSE THE CENTER BACK SEAM

With the right sides together, sew the center back seam of tier 1 under the zipper. Use a regular zipper foot so you can get close to the seam and hand-crank your machine so you don’t sew the zipper stop.

Press the seam open and turn the bodice right side out.

The finished zipper bottom of Shay View a is shown.

CLOSE THE CENTER BACK TOP EDGE

Switch back to a regular sewing foot. With the bodice wrong side out, fold the top of the center back seam toward the bodice to help make a sharp corner. Pin the top neckline and sew the top edge of the center back to meet up with the neckline stitching. Make sure both sides are even.

Clip the corners, turn right side out and press.

TACK THE BODICE LINING IN PLACE

Try on the bodice, and while wearing, pin the bodice lining in place at the waistline. Machine sew or hand tack the bodice together at the seams to hide the stitching. Alternatively you can fold the lining hem under, and sew along the entire waistline to the hem.

Pins are shown along the waistline of Shay View A

SEW TIER 2 TO TIER 1

With the right sides together, pin the gathered top edge of tier 2 to the tier 1 hem, adjusting the gathering. Match the notches, side seams, and center back. Sew and finish the seam, removing any visible basting stitches. Press the seam up.

Two tiers are shown sewn to the bodice of the Shay Dress View A.

SEW TIER 3 TO TIER 2

With the right sides together, pin the gathered top edge of tier 3 to the tier 2 hem, adjusting the gathering. The four seams of tier 3 are rotated so they match with the quarter notches of tier 2. Avoid having a seam at the center front.